Travel Like a Local

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  • Ecotours in Rwanda

    Would you like to experience Rwanda differently? Why not go on a tour through Rwanda’s ecotourism destinations.

    A Typical Itinerary in Rwanda

    Rwanda is one of the famous countries inhabiting mountain gorillas. With arrival to Kigali City then proceed to Parc National des Volcans Rwanda. Head to hotel for dinner and rest for the next day.  On day two, after early breakfast, we head for a briefing about Gorilla trekking in Rwanda at the Kinigi Station, then head straight to the slopes of the Forest. Gorilla trekking tours in Rwanda is no-longer quite strenuous, we send an advance team so you can move direct to the spot where the advance team has located the Gorillas.

    Go Gorilla Trekking

    Maximum permitted time with the Gorillas is a one hour, return to the lodge and rest. You can choose to go gorilla tracking in Parc National des Volcans with no advance team. Tracking the gorillas through the light mountain forest on the slopes of the Virunga is a magical experience. If you are lucky you can get to the gorillas, spend an hour with them, and be back at the base in time for a late lunch! Some gorilla families however are more elusive, and tracking can take a full day, especially when it is wet and muddy then back to the lodge for dinner and rest for the next day as you wait for your flight to your next destination for wildlife experience.

    Iby’wacu Cultural Village

    If you wish, you can visit the Iby’iwacu Cultural Village, which will give you a fascinating insight into the traditions and history of Rwanda’s people. Rwanda Gorilla Safaris gives you all the pleasure to travel to Rwanda and enjoy all the gorilla families and wildlife at a relatively cheaper prince hence enabling you achieve your life time dream. Book now and experience the Rwandan gorillas,wildlife, birds and all other primates including the unique cultures in Rwanda.

    With very early have a cup of tea / coffee and proceed for a morning game drive to catch up with early raisers and predators returning to their hideouts. The game drive will reward you with chances to see a variety elephants, buffaloes, lions, Maasai giraffe, gazelles, impala, baboons, oribi, Butchel’s zebra, topi, bush baby, leopard and bush buck among others. Return to the Lodge and relax to lunch time. In the afternoon, you take a nature walk with a guide from the park, learning about the flora and fauna of the forest. Alternatively, you could go on a short trek to search for one of the troops of golden monkeys which inhabit the forest (this would need to be pre-booked, and is an additional cost).

  • Great Apes Encounter: See the Mountain Gorillas

    Great Apes Encounter: See the Mountain Gorillas

    While on a gorilla safari in Rwanda, if the sight of gorillas doesn’t leave you breathless, then altitude at 9,000ft above sea level, may well do. What happens when you come face to face with an endangered mountain gorilla? I opted to crouch. I had fallen behind, with my back to the rest of our trekking group, when suddenly I was confronted by a young male coming the other way. It was a moment I’ll long never forget. Dark, unblinking eyes fixed me in an instant. Then, all huge knuckles and hairy shoulders, he approached. Fascinated, I was rooted to the spot. He sauntered past, no more than a foot away.

    Beautiful Rwanda a country determined to make the most of its natural assets; is renowned for its mountain gorillas and in fact they didn’t disappoint. Found in the far north-west of the country, in the Volcanoes National Park, twelve groups of eight visitors get to spend an hour each day with each family group and proximity to some of this planet’s last remaining mountain gorillas. These great apes are only found in three countries; Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Repuplic of Congo.

    While at park headquarters Fidel, our guide, briefed us highlighting the dos and don’ts throughout the Rwanda gorilla tour. We were assigned and visiting the Sabyinyo family group,” he explained. “this family comprises 12 gorillas, including the largest silverback, Guhonda. His name means ‘chest beater’. All of the gorillas have names; we distinguish them by the shape of their noses.

    Our trek through thick and bamboo forest, fat-leafed foliage was relatively sedate, but at nearly 9,000 feet above sea level, it still occasionally had me panting for breath. During our hour with the group, which passed incredibly quickly, we were also lucky enough to get very close to Guhonda. He, too, eyed us up, almost posing.

    Further turns around clumps of bamboo brought us to a huge blackjack, a smaller male and a tiny baby. We watched enthralled as he clambered and tumbled around in the bamboo. He was charming. Father looked on unperturbed as visitors feet away snapped like mad with their cameras. It was so close, so intimate, I felt almost embarrassed.

    The gorilla family group we were assigned was apt. The lodge where we were staying was called Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge was outstanding, one of the most comfortable of the accommodation around this park. It was here I was asked an unexpected question. “How is the Queen?” Merarry, the receptionist, was a keen royalist; he even knew the national anthem! But why? Despite the country’s lack of prior connection with British colonialists, Rwanda’s membership was officially welcomed to the Commonwealth last year; the 54th and newest member.

    The future is what everyone in this tiny East African country is fixed on. Putting past horrors behind them, a new generation of Rwandese is making ambitious plans for development, build a new Rwanda. This includes tapping into the business and cultural opportunities the Commonwealth offers, and new allegiances with anglophone neighbors – Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda.

    Unsurprisingly, tourism is an integral part of the mix. The Rwanda Development Board (RDB), which looks after tourism, is working hard to encourage visitors to do more than just visit the gorillas. Develop a diverse tourism sector for longer visitor stay.

    A two-hour drive brought me to Kigali City, the capital. The road dipped and swooped past tiny mud huts perched precariously on steep hillsides, each an island in a sea of banana and cassava plants. The warm air was full of the scent of eucalyptus and cooking smoke. Previously a backwater, Kigali now throbs with urban life – but with little of the chaos of many African cities. I shared a dinner at funky lounge bar Republika with friends.

    We drank cold beer and munched burgers laced with hot piri piri sauce, surrounded by the hubbub of Kigali’s movers and shakers. And they certainly know how to move. Rwandans love to dance. The dance floor at Top Tower nightclub on a Friday night was stacked with waggling bottoms and flailing arms to an eighth-floor backdrop of the night-time cityscape.

    After the urban excitement of Kigali, I took a Rwandair internal flight to Kamembe in the far south-east of the country. A one-hour drive brought me to another of Rwanda’s park highlights – Nyungwe Forest. Nyungwe is a big part of RDB’s tourism plans. Covering an area almost the size of Hampshire, it’s the largest slice of protected medium-altitude rainforest in Africa, stuffed with species – orchids, birds, reptiles and, in particular, chimpanzees. It’s the kind of place visitors ought to hang around longer to see.

    Previously the problem used to be the accommodation stay: just a cheap hostel or campsite. But that has changed. I was booked and slept into the beautiful Nyungwe Forest Lodge. Hidden among slopes covered with tea plants, it features designer chalets with balconies overlooking the rainforest.

    A 4.30am start meant there wasn’t long to enjoy its comforts, but the early start was worthwhile. Above me the night sky was cloudless, with a sprinkling of stars; the wind in the rainforest was the only sound. We picked up our excellent guide, Kambogo, and bumped along in a 4WD for an hour. Dawn revealed pools of cloud in the valleys below, which the rising sun turned from white to gold in moments.

    We set off following a signpost marked “Rukizi Trail”. Kambogo led at a cracking pace. “The trackers radioed to say the chimps may move soon!” he said. We forked onto a smaller trail. The slope became much steeper and the rainforest mulch under my boots more slippery.

    We burst onto a wider trail to meet up with our trackers. They guided us at gentler pace to a clearing that dropped away, offering views of enormous fig trees. It took a while to spot them, but there we eventually saw a family of chimps, swinging high in the trees, cramming their mouths with figs. As with the gorillas, our watching time was limited to an hour, but we were unable to get anywhere near as close.

    The Nyungwe forest isn’t just for hard-core trekkers, though you do need a level of fitness. There are guided walking trails, waterfalls, remarkable bird life and lots of monkeys. The latest attraction is a 220ft-high aerial walkway offering immense rainforest views. But just as we arrived it began to rain. “We can’t do the walkway if it’s raining. It’s a safety precaution,” says Kambogo. Secretly, I’m relieved. I get vertigo. That drop was already making my head spin.

    As we walked back, the rain became heavier. The final stretch of path revealed a huge gap in the canopy. I stepped into the gap and looked out at precipitous hills unrolling towards Lake Kivu on the horizon. Cooling rain ran down my face. Suddenly, a brief halo of sunlight lit the rain forest, with its centuries-old trees. Amid all the excitement of progress, I thought, Rwanda’s bright future is inextricably linked to the wonders of its primeval past.

  • Clarksdale: the Abandoned Capital of Blues

    Clarksdale: the Abandoned Capital of Blues

    The aim of my little road trip in the American Delta was one, and one only. New Orleans was too far away for the time I had, and Memphis was just going to be an interesting, if overestimated, drive through. Where I really wanted to be was Clarksdale, the legendary home of blues, the town sitting between the Mississippi and the crossroads of the highways 49 and 61.
    That junction is mostly known as the Devil’s Crossroads, and it’s where – according to the legend – Robert Johnson sold his soul to His Satanic Majesty. You can’t get more blues than that, oh wait… Muddy Waters and John Lee Hooker are from here! The list of names connected to this city is impressive and so is their display in the Delta Blues Museum, an air-conditioned mecca for the lovers of this genre. And when I talk about air-con I mean it: even by the american standards the temperature in there was insane, so that the girl at the counter had an electric heater next to her, while my car parked outside was roasting at 35°C (or whatever 90-95F is).

    That said it’s rather understandable that my expectations bar was set quite high. I was expecting music being played in every bar and in every corner of the streets, and people hanging out with guitars and harmonicas to spontaneously set up a jam when they met as their way to greet each other.
    However, as in most of the other towns I crossed, the streets were deserted. The heat surely wasn’t inviting but this looked more like a ghost town that just a siesta. I park the car for a quick patrol but, having not found a bar open, I head to the gas station for a soda.

    “Are you driving a burgundy Malibu?”
    “Y-Yes”
    How did he know? How did the guy manning the dusty petrol station in an empty-looking town know which car I was driving, even when I parked it few blocks back?
    He smiles, probably noticing my uneasy look, probably listing me amongst the guys who have seen too many movies and too little America. “Y’know, we see so few people here that when a newcomer arrives all the town knows”. He proceeds telling me that the last foreigner he’s seen was another italian guy, two weeks before, and that there’s not much to do in town outside the Juke Joint and Deep Blues festivals. That much I figured.

    I sat on a bench, sipping my root beer, when the first people appeared. They came as the sun slipped behind the trees and stopped hammering down on tarmac and concrete. A middle aged man, a silvery bush of hair on dark chocolate skin, walked past with a smile “good afternoon how are you?”. Well, I am really fine thank you, that friendliness surprised me off guard. He walked on and, just as I was wondering what had just happened, another couple – mother and school-age son – came towards me, warmly greeted, and kept on walking. Every single person who walked past me was smiling and saying a couple of words, I never felt happier or more welcome.

    There was a stark contrast between the liveliness of these people and the state of abandon of the buildings, promising blues shows that happened not less than one year before. There was a stark contrast between some of the simple wooden houses, and the modern and recently refurbished blues museum (courtesy of Billy Gibbons’s cash flow). But contrast seems to be the very description of the States, or at least the part I had visited thus far.

    Clarksdale was beautifully disappointing, and surprising in many subtle ways. All the fabled musicians playing blues on their porch, as I found out at the museum, died a few years before my arrival, and the excessive heat prevented me from visiting one of their eateries for some sweaty deep-fried meat dish. But meeting those people, seeing those places and breathing that sticky air made it worth the miles I drove there on the never ending highway 61.

    I left right on time, racing this storm that would have caught up with me few hour later in St. Louis.

  • Turkish Restaurants on Green Lanes: My Top List

    Turkish Restaurants on Green Lanes: My Top List

    Located north of Finsbury Park, Harringay has for long time been placed on the fringes of the explorable part of London. Thanks to its turkish-cypriot restaurants has been then discovered by the Time Out and, following a regeneration project put in place by the council, the area has smoothed its rough edges and polished up shop-fronts and pavements. Some of the charm have been lost in the process but, passing the Overground bridge is like stepping in a different place, a city within a city.

    Some of the restaurants have pushed a bit the limit splashing money on some rather tacky decorations, but if people keep coming here is because they can find some of the best turkish food in town. Here are my favourite restaurants in Green Lanes, in reverse order.

    Hala

    Green Lanes, London N4 1LG | Google Maps
    Phone: 020 8802 4883 | Menu

    It was once little more than a glorified kebab shop with 4 tables at the back, now they expanded to match up their neighbours’ grandeur, however I wasn’t too impressed with their Yogurtlu Adana. They are masters of grilled meat and still my favourite take-away: their wraps and stews (coming with bread, salad and rice) to go are still the best in the area.

    Antepliler

    46 Green Lanes, London N4 1AG | Google Maps
    Phone 020 8802 5588

    The guys working here made their best to spoil the reputation of their restaurant by being smug and rude. Now they even opened four places back to back, each catering different food, making it rather confusing. Make sure you enter the one with a wooden-fired oven to get a lahmacun or a pide, the typical turkish pizza. They lost all their peculiarity swapping the quirky low chairs in carved wood with bland modern furniture but their baked products are unmatched.

    Gökyüzü

    26-27 Grand Parade, Green Lanes London, N4 1LG | Google Maps
    Phone: 020 8211 8406 | Menu

    Gokyuzu Meat

    Its large dining room, polished yet informal, makes Gökyüzü ideal for a group meal or a dinner date. During one of those not-quite-romantic dinners, me and my mate celebrated my departure from Green Lanes with a mix grill for two: a mountain of rice and cous-cous covered in layers of meat, every kind of meat they offer is there. Despite being famously voracious we struggled to finish it, despite what’s written on the menu it’s better shared in 3-4 people.

    Diyarkabir

    Grand Parade, 69 Green Lanes, Haringey, London N4 1DU | Google Maps
    Phone: 020 8809 2777

    Diyarbakir Turkish Restaurant

    I will never, ever remember how to spell the name of this restaurant. This, and the uninviting the shop sign contributed to the fact that this was the last restaurant I visited in the area. But after my first dinner here I made up the lost time coming back at every chance. Now they opened another larger flashier restaurant but this one is still the best, as confirmed by the locals crowding it.
    The quality of the meat is superb and the starters are superior: not only you get salad and warm bread, but also a trio of dips, including one made with aubergine and tomato sauce… mouth watering!

    Glossary

    • Lahmacun is like a thin small pizza. The topping is minimal but tasty: tomato, minced lamb, parsley and onion or garlic. Can be wrapped up and filled with salad to make a great snack on the go.
    • Pide is the turkish pizza, it looks like a calzone opened on top.
    • Shish is the skewer.
    • Adana is the typical sausage made with lamb mince and red peppers.
    • Ayran is a yogurt-based drink slightly salted. Its flavour is quite unusual but I love to drink it with meat as it also helps soothing the effect of spices and hot peppers.
  • Tips for a Visit to Rome

    Tips for a Visit to Rome

    Accommodation and Transport
    For your accommodation I recommend to get a room in rione Monti, the area between Termini Station and the Coliseum. Conveniently located and central, though still traditionally inhabited by Romans and rich of musical and cultural events.
    Many rooms are available on AirBnB, if you aren’t registered yet do it here to get a discount on your first reservation.

    Stay in Rome like a Local… and save money on your first night!

    Public transport in Rome is famous for being not too efficient. You will probably need it to reach the area you intend to visit, and from there you’d be mostly walking. The costs of tickets and pass: Single €1.50, day pass €6.00, 3 days €16.50, 1 week €24.00, 10 tickets “carnet” €14.00. Probably a “carnet” to share could be the best option.

    Cycling could be a valid alternative, and there are many private company offering a reliable service. Otherwise you can live the dream and get a , which is arguably the best way to move around Rome. Bici&Baci offers both option.

    Roma Pass

    I’m not a big fan of city passes but if you intend to visit several museums this is good to jump the queues:
    Valid for 3 days guarantees free entry to the first two museums visited, and reduced fee for all the others.
    Unlimited free public transport for the duration of the pass.
    It costs €36 and it’s worth it only if you’re planning to visit at least 4-5 museums…Vatican not included!

    Food and water

    Save money on lunch: unless you know exactly where to go you might get ripped off for a mediocre meal. Pack a sandwich for lunch or get a slice of pizza “al trancio” on the go!

    Foursquare can be very handy for finding a place or reading reviews and getting recommendations. I’ve created a list for Rome, check it out!

    Don’t buy expensive water from the shops Rome is plenty of fountains dispensing fresh drinkable water …bring your own bottle and refill it! You’ll also do the planet a big favour.
    Enjoy your visit in Rome!

  • A Week in Rome

    A Week in Rome

    This is a flexible travel plan for those travelling in Rome and interested in covering all the basics, but also in visiting something unusual.

    In this trip I will show you the Rome that can’t be missed, the one that will bring your history books to life before your eyes, and also the non-touristy Rome I learned to know with my friends born and bred there… and you will struggle to believe that those are two sides the same city. I’ll tell you where the Romans go to eat and where they meet in the evening for drinks, both in the city centre and in areas that you won’t probably find on your travel guide, so that you will get genuine food and authentic atmosphere.

    A relentless activity of people, gestures, food and wine, have pushed Rome through the centuries and all of this is surprisingly concealed to most visitors. And this is where I will send you, mixing the history with the most modern culture: from the Forums to the MAXXI museum, from the paintings and frescoes of Caravaggio and Michelangelo to the street art of MURo, from the busiest flea market in town to one of the quiet hilltop parks from which terraces you can enjoy an unforgettable view of the sunset of such an incredible city.

    Day 1: The Ancient Empire

    Let’s start our trip where it all began.

    Walk around the Colosseum admiring the magnificent arena. The entrance fee is €12 and it includes also the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill. If you decide to visit it make sure you buy the ticket ahead to jump the queue. From there take a stroll along Via dei Fori Imperiali and travel back in time in the Palatine Hill.

    At the other side of the hill you’ll find the “Altare della Patria” (Altar of the Fatherland), a huge marble building of dubious taste which offers a great view over the Palatine Hill and the whole of Rome. Behind it runs a street (Via di San Pietro in Carcere) that climbs up to the Campidoglio, where you’ll find the square designed by Michelangelo and the famous “Lupa”: a bronze statue of a female wolf suckling two babies that will become the mythological founders of the city. It’s a small statue but with a strong meaning for the Roman people and their beloved football team.
    It’s been a long day and it’s time to join the locals for a rewarding aperitivo in Monti. From 6pm onwards the streets and piazzas are animated by cheerful crowds. Have a glass of wine or a cocktail before heading to Ai Tre Scalini (Via Panisperna, 251) for dinner. Check out the live music events, as the new season will start again in September!

    [box type=”bio”] Discover where to sleep and eat, and the best day-to-day tips on our guide to Rome[/box]

    Day 2: Eat Pray… and Walk

    Today you’re visiting the Vatican Museum, which will take up most of the day. In order to avoid the scary queues it’s best to buy the tickets online in advance. After the museums you can visit the majestic St. Peter’s Basilica, the access is free but controls are very strict, and a “respectful” dress code is required: make sure that shoulders and knees are covered. The access to the dome costs €7.
    When leaving Vatican City follow the large boulevard unfolding in front of St Peter’s square to reach Castel Sant’Angelo, by the river Tevere. The entrance is €10.50 but it will also guarantee access to the terrace with a great view on Rome.

    Parco Appia Antica

    From there cross the Sant’Angelo bridge, lined with peddlers and beautiful statues, and follow the river going south until you reach the Ghetto. This is one of the most interesting areas of Rome, not only for its Synagogue, the remains of Portico of Octavia and the unique spirit of this ancient neighbourhood, but for the delicious kosher pizza. Have a trancio (a slice) of pizza rossa or bianca (red, with tomato, or white, whitout) at any traditional bakery… my favourite is Antico Forno del Ghetto (Piazza Costaguti, 30). If you want a proper dinner why not enjoying the unique roman-kosher cuisine? I usually go to Nonna Betta (Via Portico d’Ottavia, 16) or, if it’s full, I would go to Ba’ Ghetto (Via Livorno, 10). A restaurant, rather than a bakery, will push you closer to the top of your budget but trying the Jewish Artichoke is a priceless experience.

    [box type=”download”] Did you know? On the Aventino Hill, between the Orange Grove and the Rose Garden there is a big wooden gate. If you peep through the keyhole you can see St. Peter’s Dome.[/box]

    Day 3: Adventure on two wheels

    After so much walking it’s time to give those feet some rest. Rent a bike and head to via Sannio, where you will find an authentic Roman market. More than just a typical market, it’s a stage where each vendor is contributing to a noisy, funny show.

    After the market you should start following via Appia Nuova, to reach the archaeological park of Appia Antica. Here you’ll follow the ancient road that connected Rome with Puglia, the Empire’s door to the East, and you’ll spend a day in one of the most beautiful parks in the area. You’ll be one of the few tourists visiting the ancient ruins and, if you’re going on a weekend day, you’ll find plenty of locals cycling and walking in the park. I suggest to get a sandwich on the way there to stay in the budget, otherwise you can stop at the picturesque Hostaria Antica Roma or at the more affordable Hostaria Al Bivio.

    The bikes are yours for 24 hours so why not use them for going out in the evening? The area of San Lorenzo is popular amongst the Romans for its nightlife and alternative vibe, join the crowds enjoying the mild Roman evenings and have a drink (or two). There are many bars to choose from… my favourite? It’s the Rive Gauche (Via dei Sabelli, 43), a lovely bar serving good wines and beers and, generally, only European products. They have an aperitivo (free food with every drink) until 21 or, if you miss it, you can try some late night supplì (deep fried ball of rice) from one of the many shops around via dei Sabelli.

    Day 4: A day at the Beach

    My suggestion is to hire a car for two days. Drive out of town and head to Ostia, where you can visit the well preserved remains of the ancient Roman harbour.

    I would then recommend to hit the beach as soon as possible, but keep in mind that the savvy Romans don’t go to Ostia Lido, but Torvajanica, few miles south where access is free and the atmosphere more relaxed. The beach is divided in gates (cancelli), the best ones go from the 7th to Zion. For lunch, if you haven’t prepared sandwiches, go to the Seventh Gate restaurant, for a simple but authentic meal.

    After a day in the sun I suggest a relaxing evening at the Pigneto. While the area is quite tricky to reach without a car (in fact you’ll mainly meet locals) is a gem of a pedestrian area rich of bars and good vibes. For dinner you should go to Rosti (Via Bartolomeo d’Alviano, 65) a laid-back typical restaurant with garden or, for something a bit more chic you might try Primo (Via del Pigneto, 46). Otherwise all the bars offer platters (taglieri) of cured meat (affettati) and cheese (formaggi).

    Day 5: The Seven Hills of Rome

    On a hot day, as an alternative to the beach, Romans like to go to the hills surrounding their city, to breath some fresh air and indulge in the food delicacies that make this area special.

    A few minutes drive out of Rome and you’ll be surrounded by the lush hills of the park “Castelli Romani“. Head to Castel Gandolfo and drive around the Lake Albano.
    Ariccia is a small village but really pretty and worth a visit. Have a stroll along the main road, Corso Garibaldi, until the terrace overlooking the country, and take a look inside the shops, especially the barber, where time seems to have stopped in the 50s. However the main attraction here is the food, served in restaurants called “fraschette”. Most of them are conveniently located on Via Borgo S. Rocco (try the Be Bop) but the best one is Fraschetteria Bianchi, 5 minutes walk along via dell’Uccelliera. If you prefer to eat in a more rural environment then you need to get a table by the lake at Le Fratte Ignoranti. Wherever you decided to go don’t leave without trying the famous porchetta (tasty hog roast) and the refreshing local wine.

    Campodefiori

    [box type=”download”] Did you know? Now Castel Gandolfo, for the first time in history, has been opened to public by Pope Francis. Apparently the gardens are a heavenly sight but the single admission is €26 …ouch![/box]

    Day 6/7: Classic Rome and its Piazzas

    So far you’ve seen parts of Rome that most tourist don’t even know they exist. It’s time to go back to the basics and visit the most Roman of things: la piazza, the beautiful squares that are at the core of this city’s life.

    Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Campo de’ Fiori, Fontana di Trevi… they are all there, at short walking distance one from the other. So you can decide where to go and when. I would recommend to start and end your day visit at Campo de’ Fiori: in the morning it’s covered by the famous fruit, vegetables and flowers market, while in the evening it’s busy with locals going out for a drink before dinner.

    For lunch you should go to a restaurant that is an institution: it’s central, it’s packed but it never changed since the day it opened. Il Baffetto, in via Del Governo Vecchio, is where the Romans go when they are in the area. They don’t accept reservations so be prepared to queue… it’s worth it! There is also il Baffetto 2, which belongs to the same family but it’s more touristic; the food is still very good but the vibe is less authentic.

    The works of the unmatched master Caravaggio can be found in many museums in Rome but, for reasons obscure to me, it seems that only few people know that in this area there are three churches where you can see some of his works. For free. There are three works in San Luigi dei Francesi, near Piazza Navona, two in Santa Maria del Popolo, near Piazza del Popolo, and one in Basilica di Sant’Agostino, also not far form Piazza Navona.

    Few minutes walk from Campo de’ Fiori, on your way back to your room, you can stop at Open Baladin, a bar specialized in artisan beers from the vibrant italian microbrewery scene. They serve great food too!

  • Tuk-tuk: the most annoying thing in Lisbon?

    Tuk-tuk: the most annoying thing in Lisbon?

    If you visited Lisbon you know its miradouros: terraces offering a panoramic view of different areas of town and the Tagus estuary. The most memorable in my opinion is the Miradouro Senhora do Monte, in Graça. When the sun slowly sets in the Ocean, the crystalline blue sky turns in a fast changing rich palette of orange and peach. It covers Lisbon with a silky hue, changing its colours, its silhouettes and moving its shadows at every blink of an eye.
    If you’ve been there you know what I’m talking about. A natural wonder, to enjoy leaning on the fence, a lukewarm Sagres and the sound of a guitar slightly out of tune coming from the other side of the terrace.

    Of course assuming you’ve been there few years ago. Now the guitar player has bought a tuner and a portable amp, necessary to overcome the chattering of the dozens of tourists elbowing their way to the best position and waving their smartphone to the sky to get the best shot. A woman in a straw hat barks orders to her husband, anxiously fumbling with an oversized reflex to save her well rehearsed clumsy pose to posterity. Finally she seems satisfied of the way she ruined an otherwise beautiful view and, without even a glimpse to the panorama, they jump back to their tuk-tuk buzzing away.

    Lisbon at Night
    Miradouro Lisboa – Papel de Parede

    The miradouro is in fact full of those tuk-tuks. Some of them are electric but many are still gas fuelled, waiting for their patrons humming, until the moment when the sunset loses its cover photo appeal and all of them leave with a loud roar and a cloud of smoke, taking the lazy tourists to the next item to tick off their lists.

    The Eighth Plague of Lisbon

    Fortunately I have taken my iconic Lisbon photos almost ten years ago. Now you wouldn’t have a chance of a clear shot without a smartphone pointed to the sky or a tuk-tuk struggling on some steep Alfama alley. Even in a cramped place like the Feira da Ladra your contemplation of the displayed bric-à-brac might be disrupted by a tuk-tuk pushing through the crowd, dragging its load of tourists with eyes vaguely veiled with shame.
    There’s no doubt tourism is a good source of money and everything good that might come with some wealth, but too much tourism might suffocate the city, collapsing its infrastructures and coming in the way of its citizens daily life.
    Lisbon is one of the few city where I really feel “like a local”: I lived and worked there for a while and I go there twice a year staying for week long periods, thanks to a generous friend who host me for free and doesn’t even mind that I finish his coffee all the time. Or so I guess.
    For this reason I can’t help noticing how life, in terms of daily routine, is getting increasingly difficult. Taking the 28 to work is impossible: it’s faster to walk, ordering a pingado in a café in town requires some queuing and booking a table at your favourite restaurants is an arduous task if that happens to be mentioned on the Lonely Planet. All of this is worsened by the Eighth Plague of Lisbon: the tuk-tuk.

    They’re EVERYWHERE

    An uncontrolled Swarm. Do we really need tuk-tuks?

    With a quick online search I come across ten different companies providing this service. One of them claims that they can take you “where your tour bus can’t”. So I wonder, if you need a tour bus and then another motorized vehicle to reach some place I’m not sure I see much motivation. Why create congestion and pollution if you can’t be bother to have a little walk?.
    I’m sorry for the people organising these enterprises, as I’m sure they put a lot of enthusiasm in that and they might have genuinely good intentions, but they’re really only benefiting themselves, creating a damage to the very city they are supposed to lovingly show to tourists, which is suffocating in their tuk-tuks.

    Lisbon city turned into a theme park for bored tourists
    A city turned into a theme park for bored tourists

    Lisboners surely don’t lack creativity and ingenuity, they proved that many times including their world class hostels that changed the hospitality game not long ago (check out the Hostelworld Hoscars). So I’m sure they can find a more sustainable way to promote tourism in their town.

    The problem is also being tackled by the Mayor of Lisbon who has introduced some limitations to regulate the tuk-tuk traffic which quickly spiralled out of control. Starting from November 2015 they are limited between 9am and 9pm, and they can only ride on main roads, a measure that should avoid congestion in the oldest bairros, where the tuk-tuks were swarming the narrow winding alleys. From 2017 only electric vehicles will be permitted and over 100 dedicated parking places will be created. Only on the first month 40 fines have been raised, let’s see what happens as the high season starts.

    And then, when the tuk-tuks will be regulated and nicely pulled within rank, will the Segway tours take over as the most annoying tourist attraction in Lisbon?

     

  • Milan Subway Network Grows: Welcome M5, Lilac Line

    This weekend in Milan there’s a celebration for the grand opening of the metro line 5, the Lilac one.
    Where is it going? And why it’s number 5 when there’s only three other lines?

    The metro 5, the lilac line, had some party going this weekend for the opening of the stations of Garibaldi and Isola. Actually this line was already open, in fact Martina and I already had a run on this futuristic line in February 2013 when they opened it from Zara to Bignami. Who the hell wants to go there, you ask. Well, I don’t know… and probably nobody does, so much that the opening ceremony has only been done now and. During our “test run”, it was full of people just going up and down, like us, enjoying the novelty and hoping to get the front seat.

    Read more about public transport in Milan

    This is a state-of-the-art line, all automatic, with no driver. It’s like the DLR in London where you can sit up front and pretend you’re driving the train through the tunnels. If you really want to know more technical nerdy stuff here’s the wiki page.

    Where is it going?

    Now the Zara-Bignami stage, mainly a commuters sector, has been extended with two stops: Isola, an area with lovely bars that was always disconnected from the rest of the town, and Garibaldi, the second biggest station after Stazione Centrale.

    By early 2015, before the Expo, the line should be completed, going all the way to San Siro stadium.

    Why Should I take the M5?

    1. Because it takes you to Isola where you can get smashed at some of its great bars such as Frida.

    2. Feel the thrill of riding in the driver seat. But you’ll have to fight for that

    3. Experience life in the DDR getting off at Bicocca. No seriously, just stick to points 1 and 2.

    Why 5 comes before 4?

    Originally the new lines M4 and M5 have been planned to give priority to the M4, which connects the city airport – Linate – with the rest of town. But for some financial mess up and some other political complication, in such a typical italian fashion, the first line to be build is the one connecting the stadium. And, oh, also some newly built high-market residential areas.

  • Best Value Tourist Destinations to Visit in 2015

    The Lonely Planet, the world’s largest travel guide book publisher, has recently released a list of best value destinations for 2015. These places, according to the company, are guaranteed picturesque and amazing, but they won’t break the bank unlike other luxurious destinations.

    Tunisia

    It is good news to know that many travel warnings against this North African country have been dropped. In fact, a number of travelers, according to surveys, have been booking flights to visit this place next year.

    What to do there?

    Stay at hotels in Tunis, visit the Star Wars set, and of course, heed to the Al-Zaytuna Mosque. This 5, 000 square-meter mosque, which literally means the Mosque of Olive, features multi-colored granite, marble, and porphyry and is considered one of Tunisia’s architectural pride.

    South Africa

    Aside from the fact that 1 US dollar is already equivalent to around 11 South African rand, many museums all over the country offer free entrance. Isn’t that amazing for history buffs that are in a budget? Well, South Africa is not only for ‘historians’, this place is great for animal lovers, too. We know that this part of the globe is gifted with rich wildlife.

    Did you know?

    South Africa is home to Table Mountain. Table Mountain is the only natural site on Earth to have a constellation named after it. The constellation is called Mensa, meaning table. Do you know that Table Mountain is one of the “New 7 Wonders of Nature”?

    Shanghai, China

    Behind the fact that China is the most populous country all over the world, it has managed to keep its cities peaceful. One of these cities is Shanghai, which offers many five star hotels.

    What to do there?

    According to TIME, “The joys of Shanghai are on the street level, where everyday life unfolds with bewildering variety.”

    Some of the top activities tourists must experience when in Shanghai are: riding the magnetic-levitation train (Maglev Train), visiting the Shanghai Museum, walking around the Fuxing Park, and shopping for antique pieces at Dongtai Road.

    Samoa

    Samoa is an Oceanian country in the South Pacific Ocean. According to Wikipedia, tourism in this country is an expanding sector, accounting 25% of GDP (gross domestic product). Hop off from Australia or New Zealand by plane; this is the most convenient mode of transportation to get to the island.

    Did you know?

    Samoa has been the venue of the nineteenth season of the American competitive reality show Survivor. In addition to being featured in a popular TV show, this paradise has managed to uphold its ivory-white sand, crystal-clear waters, and secluded beaches.

    Bali, Indonesia

    According to a travel site, “Bali is a living postcard, an Indonesian paradise that feels like a fantasy.” Here is a three-minute video featuring the top 10 hotels and resorts in Bali.

    Did you know?

    In the year 2010, Bali received the Best Island award from Travel and Leisure, a travel magazine based in New York City with over four million readers.

    Uruguay

    Uruguay is a country located in the south east part of South America. West of Uruguay is Argentina and Brazil on its east. This nation only has over three million people and more than half of the total population lives in the metropolis.

    What to do there?

    Visit Montevideo, the largest and the capital city of Uruguay. The city itself has more than 50 hotels, including the Radisson and Sheraton. Otherwise, feast on asados (barbecues) at Mercado del Puerto.

    Portugal

    The best things to do in this part of the world are: to experience the sea, sun and sand at Algarve; to visit Palacio de Pena in Sintra; to have a taste of the Port wine in Porto; and for water adventurers – to explore Vila Franca do Azores, the perfect haven for yachting diving, whale watching, and different types of water sports.

    Did you know?

    Portugal ranked eighth in the KOF Index of Globalization in the year 2010, 2013, and 2014. It is also one of the most peaceful and responsive countries across the globe.

    Taiwan

    This East Asian country is way more affordable than its neighboring countries such as Hong Kong, China, and Japan. If you are a nature lover, then you can hike up the Elephant Mountain or visit the Taipei Zoo without spending a lot. And for shopaholics, you can certainly ‘shop until you drop’ at Taipei 101 Mall or at Zhongxiao E. Road without breaking the bank.

    What to do there?

    Aside from shopping, visiting the Mengjia Longshan Temple in Wanhua District is also a must-do when in Taiwan. This temple worships Buddhist and Taoist deities.

    Romania

    The last but definitely not the least budget-friendly destination for 2015 is Romania. A country in southeastern-central Europe, this place has the fourth fastest growing travel and tourism total demand in the world.

    Did you know?

    Travelling to Romania will give you a lot of options. Among which are the history, the culture, and the nature. History buffs can take a narrow gauge train trip. This mode of transportation and the railway was constructed way back 1932 and is still working until today. Nature lovers, on the other hand, can visit a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site called the Danube Delta.

  • What Food to Pack Before Travelling

    What Food to Pack Before Travelling

    In a previous article we’ve shared some tips on how to optimize your backpack, but what if you also want to bring some food from home. You might miss out on some local delicacies but you’ll save lots of money and, with most of hostels, guesthouses and AirBnB hosts offering kitchen facilities, it has become easier than ever.
    Iceland, which we recently visited, is the perfect country for bringing your own food: their culinary tradition is poor to non-existent, and even junk food is expensive. This is the list of what we brought with us, slightly amended and ready for the next trip.

    • Rice, pasta
    • Tomato paste tub
    • Instant soups in sachets
    • Tuna
    • Veggies and pulses in can or tetrapack
    • Dried fruit / nuts
    • Tea / Herbal Tea
    • Instant coffee
    • Chocolate bar
    • Crackers
    • Biscuits
    • Porridge
    • Airtight boxes

    Rice and pasta are the staple of most of your dinners and they can be easily cooked. Go for spaghetti rather than other pasta shapes as they take up less space. A tub of tomato concentrate paste is great to add some flavour to a souce, and can be mixed with tuna and beans. Dried fruit and nuts will provide with vitamins and fibres in places where fresh fruit is not easily available or too expensive.

    Instant soups are light to carry and will only need some hot water to make a light meal or a warm drink. Tea, infusions, and soluble coffee are often provided for free in most properties but are always handy to have. Porridge in bags makes for a healthy and nutritious breakfast. Noodles are also easy to carry and cook but we overdosed so we’ll keep them off the list for a while!
    The last thing we wish we had brought are some airtight boxes to store pasta and rice salads, it would have been a nice change to our sandwich-based diet.