Travel Like a Local

Category: Guides

  • Gorilla Trekking in Uganda Vs Rwanda

    Gorilla Trekking in Uganda Vs Rwanda

    If you are thinking of taking a gorilla safari in Africa, you are looking to either visit Rwanda or Uganda. These are the two best places to go gorilla trekking given that they are safe, secure and have promoted gorilla tourism. After writing the comprehensive guide to gorilla trekking, many respondents wanted to get a relative comparison between gorilla trekking in Uganda vs Rwanda. Below are just some of the comparative things that you should know about planning a trek in both countries. After reading this comparison guide, the ball lies in your hands to choose which place to go to;

    Accessibility

    Uganda is located astride the Equator within Eastern Africa. The country can be easily visited with ease of attaiing visa on arrival. You can easily travel to Uganda from Nairobi, Kigali or Tanzania via a commuter bus. It can also be accessed via air with several airlines flying to the Entebbe International Airport.

    Rwanda is located in Central Africa though politically it is within the East Africa Community. It can easily be accessed by via by taking flights to Kigali International Airport. Rwanda requires application for visa before traveling to date and this can be done online at https://www.migration.gov.rw/index.php?id=245

    Please note; you can travel both destinations on a single tourist visa.

    Mountain Gorillas: Rwanda vs. Uganda

    Cost: Both countries charge different fees for the gorilla permits. Rwanda gorilla permits cost $1500 per person while Uganda charges $800 per person. A gorilla permit is required for every tourists looking to gorilla trekking and it permits for a full hour with the gorillas. The trips to the gorillas are taken in groups of 8 persons per group and are led by local tour guides. Therefore if you are looking to save on your next permit, you can save $700 if you choose a Uganda gorilla trek.

    Duration of Packaged Trips: Rwanda provides the easiest access to gorilla trekking for travelers looking for shorter trips. Rwanda offers day trips and 2 Days gorilla trek for travelers with less time yet would like to see the endangered gorillas in the wild. This is due to that Ruhengeri the region where PNV lies is located just 2hours from Kigali, the capital city of Rwanda. For Uganda, the shortest trip is a 3 Day Gorilla Safari given its location from Kampala or Entebbe where most trips start. A gorilla safari in Uganda involves an 8-10 hour drive from the international airport in Entebbe, traveling to the remote South western Uganda, where Bwindi lies.

    Trek Difficulty: There is no specific time for a gorilla tour in any of the parks. The walk in search of the mountain gorillas can take between 3o minutes – 12 hours of hiking to find them in the wild. Guided by tourists the hikes can vary quite a bit depending on the particular group visited, the terrain and the last known location where the mountain gorillas were last seen. Tough most people consider that treks in Rwanda are slightly easier while those in Uganda are slightly more strenuous given the different landscapes it is not a guarantee that the treks in Rwanda will be shorter than that in Uganda.

    Better Gorillas: Many travelers ask about which gorillas are better, the truth is there is no difference. Today there are twelve habituated troops in Rwanda and 24 habituated gorilla groups in Uganda. Therefore there more gorilla permits available everyday for Uganda than Rwanda. Please note that you can reserve the gorilla permits quickly though a tour operator. The system of tracking the gorillas is nearly the same in both countries with a few slight difference. Upon reserving your gorilla permit in Uganda, your permit carries the gorilla group to be visited while in Rwanda, you have to wait till the D Day and the local rangers will asign you to the gorilla group you are to hike to.

    The Gorilla Watching Experience

    In general, the experience can only be different due to the way a particular gorilla family behaves in front of the trackers, how long and tough one has to track before reaching the gorillas and the way the park staff conduct the exercise.

    Personally, I found the Rwanda gorilla tracking package more charming than the Ugandan one on the tracking day. Should we say that this’ because of the gorilla permit price difference? Anyways, on your gorilla tracking day in Rwanda, you will definitely get more than that. At about 7:00 AM, tea/ coffee dispensers with cups are laid for visitors going for the trek.

    As visitors are enjoying the tea/ coffee, they are entertained by the lively traditional dance troupe (SACOLA Traditional Dancers) who bring on a wholesome Rwanda traditional cultural experience that all visitors enjoy.

    Other Things to See

    The drive from Kampala to Bwindi is a very fabulous one traversing at least another national park (either Kibale or Queen Elizabeth National Park famous for tree climbing lions and many other big mammals, or Lake Mburo National Park) and not to miss- the Equator. In a way, even before you arrive Bwindi you have had a bit of the ‘Pearl of Africa’ as is fondly known. To many, driving along paved eucalyptus avenues to the gorillas in not the best deal. Indeed many to purchase tour packages combining both Rwanda and Uganda, first doing Gorillas in Rwanda and then crossing to Uganda to visit Queen Elizabeth National Park for the BIG 5 safaris and chimpanzee tracking among other tours.

    Let’s compare the tour costs of a Trip

    Because of the long drive one endures from Kampala to Bwindi, the general cost is increased (even when you travel by public buses). It even increases more because you have to travel 2 days (to and from Bwindi). However, the increased cost is countered by the low cost gorilla permit of US$800 ($600 in April and May 2014). A low budget 3 days gorilla trek tour in Uganda goes for from $1350 (with gorilla permit, accommodation, and transport). The two days Rwanda gorilla trek costs from $1990 ( with gorilla permit, accommodation, and transport) and a three days Rwanda gorilla tracking tour costs is about $2280 (with gorilla permit, accommodation, and transport).

    Lastly, if you are not travelling just to see the mountain gorilla, and you want to include other activities in your visit, Rwanda may not be the best choice. Many tourists have continually had to cross to Uganda after their Rwanda gorilla trek to tour other reserves like Queen Elizabeth National Parks so endowed with abundant wildlife one cannot see in Rwanda. This is why probably folks continue enduring the long drives to Bwindi yet there is an easy way out.

    At the end of the day – the ultimate jury are those who are looking as to which country to visit in order to track Gorillas – it is not Rwanda, not Uganda, not the Democratic Republic of Congo but where their pockets and hearts choose. If you precisely want the mountain gorillas and nothing else, go for a one-day gorilla trek especially in Rwanda but if you are a one who wants it and all of it, go for the long drive in Uganda – you won’t regret.

  • Iceland: What’s the Best Travel Guide?

    Iceland: What’s the Best Travel Guide?

    Choosing a travel guide is never an easy task. The best would be to buy all of them or, at least, go to a library and go through the most of them, before deciding. For our trip to Iceland went for the Rough Guide, just for a change, as it served us well in Warsaw. Since we were driving a car we also needed to buy a detailed map.

    Our Iceland Road Map

    We were expecting to consult our map outdoor, under extreme weather conditions, the paper torn apart by strong gales and battered by icy rain. This never happened but we decided to buy a waterproof and tearproof map, one of the folding type. We would have preferred a book map, much easier to use inside the car, but the difference of price between the two models was high enough to influence the choice. I would now go for the book map, or for more detailed regional maps as details can be significative when you’re lost in the middle of nowhere with nobody to ask directions to. Check our article for more tips about maps and driving in Iceland.

    Rough Guide Iceland 2013

    Iceland Travel Guides

    Our Rough Guide let us down in few occasions. The Snaefellsnes peninsula was described as a collection of eventless towns, wooden churches and rocks, while our host in Grundarfjordur penned down for us an unforgettable one-day itinerary.

    In the Myvatn region we were massively disappointed as we missed out on this just because it wasn’t clearly described and it wasn’t on the map. Talking about guides with a couple, whose path we crossed a few times along the road, they had the same feedback about their Lonely Planet. Sure we might have got all the hints if we had read the guide thoroughly but I reckon guides should be thought for being consulted quickly on the go.

    They can be found at any tourist information centre of the country, I started collecting them even if we initially thought they were just an excuse to advertise local hotels and restaurants. As a matter of fact they turned out to be incredibly useful, rich of details on the area they cover, from the most popular destinations, to the best activities, to some precious info that wasn’t on our Rough guide. They’re for free and can also come with an extra folding maps which, even though is not quite as detailed, have been very helpful to us in several occasions.

    Self-drive tours

    Before planning the trip ourselves, we’ve contacted some companies organising self drive tours. They are pretty cool as they organise everything for you but they are not intrusive (which we hate) so, once you’re there, you’re on your own and you are completely free, either to stick to the plan or to go off route. Their offer includes: car rental, accommodation booking, maps, suggestions, GPS, assistance. Considering the costs in Iceland, what those guys charge is perfectly acceptable for a nicely planned trip and a safety net. However it was above our budget so we decided to do it on our own.
    The companies we contacted, that seemed professional and reliable, are the Reykjavik based Extreme Iceland and Discover the World.

    Car rental

    First thing we had to get the car sorted. After reading countless forums and blogs we picked Blue Car Rental as our company of choice. It appears to be one of the cheapest and one of the most reliable with smashing reviews. They also offer some older model for a cheaper price (like the guys at SADcars do) so we opted for a Jimmy. If you are not going to use the “difficult” roads, called F-roads, you really don’t need a 4×4 but, since this model costs only little more than small car we opted for a 4×4. And also we figured it’d be cool to drive a car called Jimmy. Different combinations of days – for pick up and drop off – and location – either Keflavik or Reykjavik – can change the final bill massively. Moreover those companies usually offer a transfer service so they will come pick you up wherever you are and they’ll take you where you need to go after you’ve given the car back.

    Booking Accommodation

    This has proven harder than we thought. With few properties, and far between, there’s no much choice in Iceland for a bed to sleep, especially if you’d rather choose for a lower budget. To make things worse the tour operators book, at the beginning of the season, as many rooms as they think they’ll need, leaving even fewer options for the independent traveller, especially in busy areas such as near the Skaftafell National Park. For this reason we recommend to book every night, largely in advance, unless you have a camping kit as a back up plan.
    We’ve booked a mix of rooms in hotels and guesthouses on Booking.com, and AirBnB. We’ll stay in a wooden cabin and in a vintage van parked in a back yard of a house overlooking a fjord… not sure whether to look forward to that or be scared.

    Given the nature of this country and the scarcity of accommodation I highly recommend to contact every property booked, asking for confirmation of availability and if the location is correct. A room booked on AirBnB turned out to be in Reykjavik, not near Akureyri as shown on their map. Luckily we found out before leaving and not once there, in the middle of nowhere.

  • Guide To Gorilla Trekking in Congo

    Guide To Gorilla Trekking in Congo

    Our guide to gorilla trekking in Congo takes travellers through the whole process of trekking the endangered mountain gorillas in Virunga National Park, permit cost, the best time to undertake the adventure, information on booking accommodation and transport, rules and regulations to follow when trekking gorillas, and the packing list for gorilla trekking in Congo.

    In the Eastern Democratic Republic of Congo, within the rainforests high on the mountains are the endangered mountain gorillas, one of the most sought-after wildlife species in Africa. These Great Apes live in Virunga National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site gazetted in 1925 and sprawling for over 7800 square kilometers. This Park is home to about 200 gorillas mainly occupying the southern region of the Park.

    Gorilla families and available gorilla Permits for the Democratic Republic of Congo

    Virunga National Park is a haven to about 8 habituated gorilla groups that include Bageni, Humba, Kabirizi, Nyakamwe, Rugendo, Lulengo, Munyaga, and Mapuwa, hence only 64 gorilla permits are availed each day for this Park.

    How to book Congo Gorilla Permits

    Congo gorilla permits are the cheapest (when compared with the other two destinations where Great Apes are tracked) and cost only $400 per person per trek. Gorilla Trekking in Congo is, therefore, the ideal destination for budget and adventure travellers who would be interested in travelling off-the-beaten-path. However, due to continuous rebel attacks within the Eastern part of the country, Congo has been considered very unstable and unsafe with the recent kidnap of British visitors (in 2018) and murder of Park rangers leading to the closure of the Park. However, Virunga National Park was eventually opened for tourism in 2019.

    Regardless of the endless fights, instability, and challenges in gorilla conservation, Virunga National Park is still regarded as a wonderful African treasure in addition to being an extraordinary gorilla trekking destination. This Park takes pride in being one of the first National Parks within the African Continent with rich biodiversity and home to some of the most active Volcanoes in the World.

    Congo Gorilla Permits are only issued by ICCN (Institut Congolais pour la Conservation de la Nature) but there are two ways to book for these permits. First, you can book on your own by applying directly to ICCN via the official Virunga National Park website, email, phone, or reaching their Head Offices in Kinshasa. This process is however more cumbersome and frustrating as sometimes it becomes difficult to get to them and even when you do, the reply is not always guaranteed in addition to some permits being set aside for direct sales.

    The second way to book for Congo Gorilla Permits is through a trusted Tour Operator or Travel Agency. A number of Tour Operators in Uganda and Rwanda usually book over 80% of these permits, with visitors charged a commission of ($50-100) for administrative expenses. However, this commission is relinquished when you book the entire gorilla safari with them.

    How gorilla trekking adventures are conducted in Virunga National Park

    Gorilla Trekking in Congo is usually an all-day adventure with an early morning start. A typical day starts at about 7:00 am with registration and orientation at the Bukima Ranger Post. Park trackers always go ahead to find the location of each habituated gorilla group and their general distance from the briefing point. Your level of physical fitness and personal interest will determine which gorilla group you can be assigned to and the length of the trek.

    After the orientation, you will walk or be driven to the starting point where the trek begins at 8:00 am, depending on the exact location of the gorilla group you will be trekking.

    Hike for 1-5 hours before you finally find your assigned gorilla group and in some cases, it takes even the entire day before you reach the gorilla group. The scenery in Virunga National Park is incredibly beautiful and the hike to find mountain gorillas is just part of your experience. Always make sure to move at your comfortable pace and keep hydrated at all times especially at higher altitudes.

    As you start approaching the gorilla group, rangers will request you to leave your bags as you get closer to the gorillas. The moment you make contact, you will be allowed to spend one full hour with the mountain gorillas. You will see them munching on Bamboo shoots, grooming each other, resting, hanging on trees, mating, playing and mothers breastfeeding their young ones. Every gorilla trekking experience in Congo is exceptional thus make use of your one hour to enjoy this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

    Even when gorillas are on the move, you will move along with them as long as you maintain the minimum distance of 7 meters. There are instances of them approaching visitors but don’t feel frightened but instead slowly move back. Your guides are experienced and will be of great help in answering all your questions about the mountain gorillas, the rainforest, and other wildlife and bird species of the Park. These guides intimately know each gorilla group and can even identify each of them by their individual names and personalities.

    How difficult is gorilla trekking?

    Gorilla trekking is generally a physically demanding activity with visitors expected to walk through muddy trails, dense forests, and thickets thus it is important to always be prepared both emotionally and physically. The mist and abrupt or unexpected rains sometimes mean that hikes are slippery and at times muddy. However, porters can be hired to carry your backpack and camera equipment in addition to adding humor and excitement to the adventure.

    Important Gorilla Trekking guidelines in Virunga National Park

    When trekking gorillas in Congo, there is a need to follow the important trekking guidelines issued during a briefing at the Ranger post. Some of these guidelines include following the minimum trekking age limit of 15 years, spending only one hour in the presence of the mountain gorillas after hours of finding them, visiting each habituated gorilla family in a group of not more than 8 persons, maintaining a minimum distance of 7 meters when observing and taking photos of these Great Apes, keeping voices low while trekking or observing them, avoiding the use of flash photography, not drinking, eating or smoking while in the presence of mountain gorillas, first washing hands before embarking on gorilla treks, not littering the forest and keeping any rubbish or food leftovers to yourself and most importantly avoiding direct eye contact with the gorillas.

    Best time for Gorilla Trekking in Congo

    The Democratic Republic of Congo can be visited all year round although the best months to trek gorillas are June to September all the way to February. Most travellers opt to visit these Great Apes when the rain is reduced and the sun is shining through the jungle. December is the busiest month for Virunga National Park and it is prudent to book for the Congo Gorilla Safari. Much as the rainy season affects many plans and engagements, it doesn’t mean that the scheduled gorilla trek will completely not happen. Therefore even during the rainy season, the sun appears after a heavy downpour hence gorilla treks can go on without interruption.

    Safari lodges also offer discounted rates during the rainy/low season as a gesture to attract more visitors.

    What to pack and wear for Congo Gorilla Trekking

    Your typical day of trekking Congo gorillas is long and fairly difficult while mornings and evenings in Virunga National Park are cold. Packing and wearing the right gear/equipment will make your day remarkable and unforgettable. Have a portable backpack for carrying a lunch box, drinking water, and rain jacket during the trek, Strong hiking boots with extra ankle support for muddy and rocky terrain, a long-sleeved shirt for protection from insects, stinging nettles and sunshine, lunch box, long cotton socks, rain jacket, first aid kit with plasters, antiseptic wipes, rehydration sachets, anti-histamine cream and tablets, pair of binoculars, sunglasses, and sunscreen, camera, gardening gloves to protect your hands, a warm sweater for cold mornings and evenings, hiking pants and many others.

    How to get to Virunga National Park

    Virunga National Park is about 19 miles to the west of Goma Town, Eastern Democratic Republic of Congo. Most travellers to this destination usually jet into Kigali International Airport and catch the 4-5 hour road trip to the Goma-Gisenyi border crossing then continue to Virunga the same or the next day. Alternatively, flights can land at Congo’s Goma International Airport then continue by road.