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10 of the Most Beautiful Places in Marrakech

Like many North African cities, the Moroccan city of Marrakech is steeped in history, comprising as it is of an ancient fortified city and a modern adjacent city. This comfortable combination of ancient traditionalism and modern developments means that tourists will be in their element when seeking some of the city’s most sumptuous eye candy.

Here, I draw upon my own experience of holidays in Marrakech in this two part series dedicated to some of the most visually gorgeous Marrakech attractions to see during Marrakech holidays. In no particular order, here are ten Marrakech must-see’s.

1. El Bahia Palace

Apparently, the name of this palace, built between 1894 and 1900, translates to ‘palace of the beautiful’ – and it certainly lives up to its name. Sadly, you won’t find Monica Bellucci here, at one of the premier Marrakech landmarks, but you will see plenty of water features, stucco panels, tiled floors, smooth arches, an eight-hectare garden surrounding the palace, plus a lot more. Just be sure to employ a guide, so that you don’t get lost.

2. Ali ben Youssef Medersa and Mosque

As Marrakech historical sites go, the Medersa, a former Islamic college, really does offer one of the most amazing feasts for the eyes with its plentiful art and architecture. You will, for instance, see plenty of carved cedarwood and colourful zellij tiles in the courtyard, while the interior of the prayer hall is covered in pine cone and palm motifs.

The Mosque, another of the truly significant Marrakech heritage sites, is similarly worth a look, though it is only open to Muslims.

3. Majorelle Garden

You can expect a slightly higher entrance fee here than with many Marrakech attractions, but trust me – it’s worth it! The sheer variety of plants on display, many of which you probably never would have seen before, is truly awe-inspiring.

You will probably never see so many different types of cactus plants in the same place ever again in your entire life. You should definitely arrive early, however, as the crowds appearing later can be annoying during any Marrakech holidays.

4. Museum of Islamic Art

You will see a lot to marvel here even before you get inside the thing. Not only is it based in the lovely Majorelle Garden (see above), it is based in a house quite unlike any in the city, boasting as it does a blue and yellow colour scheme and ornate windows. The exhibits themselves, many dating back hundreds of years, include carpets, jewellery, paintings and pottery, making the Museum of Islamic Art one of the most intriguing Marrakech heritage sites to visit during Marrakech tours.

5. Atlas Mountains

Though you will need to embark on an hour’s drive to see these up close, they can nonetheless be seen from several places in Marrakech, since they hover in the sky above the city’s pink defensive walls. The entire mountain range spans about 1,500 miles through Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia, but only the High Atlas subrange, often coated in snow during the winter months, is visible from Marrakech.

6. Djemma el Fna (Jemaa el Fna)

A place of both beautiful sights and sounds, any respectable Marrakech tours have to include a stop here. At night, it is populated by musicians, dancers and story tellers; by day, you can expect to see snake charmers and people with monkeys.

You should also find stalls there at any time of the day, selling all kinds of stuff – so you can get a bite to eat while you are watching any of the shows, among the most exciting things to do when on holiday in Marrakech. Just remember to pay to watch them.

7. Marrakech Souks

This is a very colourful place – literally, as well as metaphorically. It is basically the main market place of Marrakech, where you can purchase almost anything – food, clothes, cutlery… you get the gist. Try your best to haggle for good prices – though, in my experience, you will probably still end up paying more for goods here than a native would. Those seeking mainly shopping-oriented Marrakech holidays should make this place their first port of call.

8. Saadian Tombs

These date from the time of sultan Ahmad al-Mansur (reigned 1578-1603), but were only discovered in 1917 after being left untouched for centuries. Befitting the name, you can find the graves of about sixty members of the Saadi royal dynasty that ruled Morocco in the late sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries. The real visual delights here are in the Italian Carrara marble monuments and the gorgeous decoration of the tombs.

9. El Badi Palace

This building, originally constructed in 1578, these days lies in ruins, and is clearly more accustomed to housing stray cats than Moroccan royalty. However, it isn’t difficult to imagine how truly majestic it must have looked prior to being torn apart by Alaouite sultan Moulay Ismail. It remains one of the most fascinating Marrakech historical sites, and exploring it remains one of the most riveting things to do in Marrakech.

10. Koutoubia Mosque

Though named after the booksellers market previously located here, it is fair to say that this, one of the most imposing Marrakech landmarks, is much more aesthetically pleasing than any pile of books. In fact, the minaret of the mosque has often been likened to the Eiffel Tower in Paris – and, like that monument, it looks even more beautiful when lit at night. Getting a photo of yourself and your fellow travellers in front of this is one of the truly essential things to do in Marrakech.

October 28, 2021
How to Prepare for Tent Camping

With spending money shrinking due to a poor economy, it is no surprise that there is an increase in the inexpensive vacation tent camping. Compared to a theme park or exotic vacations, tent camping is very affordable. The initial costs may add up but remember you will get many uses out of most items like tents, sleeping bags, grills, pots, and dishes (don’t use paper or plastic). Because of this, throughout the United States, campgrounds have seen a 10% increase in rentals. Many rentals being new first time campers, excited about their camping adventure, and many inexperienced campers arrive unprepared.

Not being prepared for tent camping does not mean forgetting a dc operated TV/VCR, but rather forgetting tent stakes, sleeping bags and other appropriate gear, which could lead tent campers to sleeping in the car and bumming food of neighbor tent campers. The key to making tent camping fun is simple, allow nature and the surroundings to provide the entertainment while being prepared for the environment. Regional campgrounds all have their own unique climate and surrounding weather features. Prepared camping means having the proper shelter, attire and food preparation. Consider the following before choosing tent camping as your low-budget eco-friendly vacation option:

Tent – Buying a tent does not have to cost a lot. Consider buying camping tents built for the worst weather conditions. Fireproof, easy assembly, storage areas, head room, and comfortable space are all factors to look for when buying a new tent. There is always compromises when deciding on a new purchase. Match your camping comfort levels with the camping areas you plan to visit.

Sleeping Bag – Top notch sleeping bags are not always the nessesary purchase. As nice as it seems most of the time you over do it. Most people need a medium size sleeping bag. The thickness is very important. Heavy sleeping bags cause nights of tossing, turning, and sweating like a pig in hot nights. Light sleeping bags cause you to seek additional warmth. How do you sleep at home? Is your bedroom hot, warm, or cool? What do you use for blankets? Take those answers and determine the thickness and size of your new sleeping bag. I personally need a sleeping bag that was light. My body tends to adjust well to my surrounding temperatures, and I sleep better in cooler areas. I’d rather put on an extra blanket or snuggle close, than sweat all night.

Emergency First-Aid Kit – The bigger the better. You want it to be full. When putting together your initial first-aid kit it is a good idea to purchase a complete kit. Make sure you have a complete list of the contents in the first-aid kit. Every time you get home from your camping trips do a complete inventory. Remember any allergy medications, sun tan lotions, citronella or insect deterrent and snake bite kits. (Of course we recommend all natural products. They should be either homemade or purchased from a natural substance store. We also like to recommend a citronella plant. These plants work very very well.)

Outdoor Clothing – My number one recommendation for outdoor clothing would be a pair of cargo pant with a detachable lower leg. Very Nice! Cargo pants and cargo shorts is always great, but with cargos you get extra weight and bulk. Not everyone is comfortable in bulky shorts. Comfort level is again important. It is a very nice convenience to have extra pockets when you are hiking or around the campsite. Shoes are another important consideration. If you plan on doing any hiking, please do yourself a favor and buy hiking boots. Then consider your sneakers, shower sandals, flip-flops, or moccasins.

Food and Drink – #1 fresh water. Make sure you have plenty of drinkable water. Use boiled water for dishes. (hint: bring a pot to put on a fire). Bring plenty of food. Plan every meal. Remember the mountain pie makers, bread, pizza and pie fillings. Nuts (maybe in a trail mix) are a very good idea also. Remember you also don’t want to over do it. Storage has to be considered. You don’t want bears and coons!

Maps – You want to know where you are at right. GPS is great but maps are cheaper. Plus, add a compass and still save hundreds of dollars. If you don’t want to be wandering around in circles find maps of camping area grounds including trails and features. Make sure you can read it and understand it before buying maps. You should be able to find one that you can follow.

Being prepared not only means having the proper materials, but also having a proper knowledge of the campground’s environment and its features. Beware that there are wild animals you don’t want to attract.

If you have any suggestions of “camping must haves”, please share with us by leaving a comment below.

September 19, 2021
Travel Anywhere You’d Like With These Tips

Travel is a great way people learn more about the world and themselves.Travel affords individuals the chance to learn about distant lands while getting away from the routines and trials of daily grind.

Use the ATM when you are in the local currency.Banks get better exchange rates for exchanging currencies than you may get. This can save a considerable amount of money for you some money.

Be wise about food allergies when visiting a foreign country in order to avoid bad liaisons. If you suffer from severe food allergies, you must become fluent in the words the natives use when it comes to their food. This will allow you to communicate to others what foods you have an allergy to so that they can be kept out of your meals.

The less things you have with you, the less likely you will lose valuable items or have them stolen.

Make sure you have clothespins with you when travelling. They can be a useful item when you go on a trip, but they actually can prove to be very useful.

When to travel by plane or car with a toddler, it is important to have enough interesting things with you to occupy your toddler during the long trip. Bring toys and hassle. You can also buy a few new toys for the travel because this will offer him enough distraction to keep him busy.

When traveling by air, it is important to wear shoes that are comfortable and easily removable. You are going to have to remove them off at the security checks. Sandals or flip-flops are best for air travel.

You could be covered in the event of a flight is canceled. It pays to conduct some research before you leave.

A motorcycle provides an excellent travel method for day trips or road trips if a wonderful way to travel.It can be awesome to travel by motorcycle.

Sometimes you will end up in a less than nice hotel. Bring a rubber doorstop for safety.You can use this under your room door at night to add security beyond the chain and lock.

Most automobile rental companies require the minimum age to be at least 18 years old, and some do not rent to those under 25. You may pay more and have to use a credit card with you. There are some cities that do not allow seniors from renting cars. Find out about age restrictions when reserving a rental car.

You can also write on the mirror.You can use dry-erase markers and easily wipe off of mirrors with just a little bit of tissue paper.

Your dream vacation can go horribly wrong if not carefully planned. Read online reviews on the web from others who have stayed there before. Their experience can help you choose hotels and avoid staying in a dangerous town or seedy hotel.

Travel offers you a way to lean about different cultures and people groups. By using the tips shared above, any traveler can have a great journey.

March 10, 2021
How To Find Culturally Unique Travel Ideas

If you’re looking to get away from it all with a trip away from home, don’t forget to travel smart. A mishap, mistake or forgotten item can ruin a vacation as surely as bad weather or an unpleasant travel companion. While there are some things you just can’t control, maximize your chances of having a good trip with the following travel tips.

To really get a feel for where you are vacationing, follow the locals. Many top vacation spots start to feel very generic and touristy. By asking around and finding where the people who live there hang out, you will get a more authentic feel for the area, and as a bonus, avoid the price markups that plague tourist hot spots.

Use plenty of plastic when packing. Putting your clothes, toiletries, and other items in clear plastic bags is always a smart way to pack when traveling. Not only does it help you organize, it also keeps your possessions safe. If the bag should be exposed to the elements on the tarmac, the contents of your bag will stay dry.

If you pack electronics while traveling, either remove the batteries or flip them around. Some small electronics can be easily flipped on. You definitely do not want them flipping on in your bag during the trip. There is a good chance the battery might be drained by the time they are unpacked.

Consider mailing souvenirs home. Everyone loves souvenirs, but sometimes you can wind up with one too many while traveling. If all the things you have accumulated on your vacation won’t fit in your suitcase for the return trip, you can always mail them home. Usually, you will make it home before your trinkets do.

Make sure your house does not look vacant while you are away. Coming home to find that you have been robbed would be a nightmare. If you intend to be gone for a considerable length of time, consider redirecting or having a friend pick up your mail for you.

When planning to travel to a country that uses a very different language or even alphabet than your own, it’s a good idea to get precise, up to date information about exactly how to travel to hotel bookings or sites of interest ahead of time. Often, maps or travel guides won’t go into the amount of detail necessary, so make sure to have a custom map which shows everything you’ll need.

Now that you’ve read the above travel tips, you’re more prepared to meet your travel destiny with the fearlessness of thorough preparation. Keeping these few simple things in mind whenever you leave home on a trip will give you more peace of mind and make sure you bring home more stories about great experiences rather than about stressful learning experiences.

September 26, 2020
Getting Around Britain: Travelling in the UK on the Cheap

England, or more generally and correctly speaking, the United Kingdom of Great Britain, is famed to be a very expensive country. Nowadays this is no longer true, especially for people coming from Europe. However for some aspects and services, prices are still above the average.
Having a look at the trains and hotels rates should would give you an idea of what I’m talking about. Fortunately though, in Britain is relatively easy to save money on special deals, as long as you carefully follow a few tips.

Let’s the best ways to travel around Britain and how to save money in the process:

Bus

The bus services, mainly operated by the national company (National Express) cover the whole country and it’s usually the cheapest way to travel. Booking with few days in advance, an off-peak bus trip across the country might cost £5.

Other companies offer local services, some of them are the low-cost company in the bus world: Megabus might take you from London to Bristol for just £1! Although it’s quite unlikely to find the £1 fare, you can easily find the cheapest tickets on the market.

Train

If you don’t have time to cruise around on a bus, the train is your option. Very efficient and nearly always on schedule (but I’m from Italy so the standards I’m used to are quite low…), they’re fast as a bullet: London-Manchester in 2 hours and few minutes, but also very expensive.

Don’t be scared of the standard rates, as there are many ways to save money.
First thing: book in advance. I know it’s not always possible, but this will help you saving money. Second: travel off-peak, this will save you not just money but also the discomfort of travelling on a train packed with unhappy commuters.

Your bargain research should start from the National Rail website, if nothing can be found here you can use one of those rate comparison websites (like Skyscanner for trains). I usually go to these:

www.thetrainline.com
www.mytrainticket.co.uk

It’s also worth checking the Virgin trains website looking for special offers: www.virgintrains.co.uk

Car Hire

When travelling off the rail tracks, or for a wild ride in the countryside, hiring a car can be a good option. Car rentals are very affordable in the UK. With Enterprise I usually rent one for little more than £30 a day, or about £60 for the whole weekend. A small car runs on a £13-15 per 100 miles, so if travelling in a party of 3-5 people can be very convenient.

Airport

With no doubts the most complicated city in the UK, in terms of airport transfers, is London.

Which airport are you flying to and from? What’s the best way to get there, bus, train, tube, taxi…? To avoid getting lost in the maze of airports and options check the guides to London airports:

December 4, 2019
Ecotours in Rwanda

Would you like to experience Rwanda differently? Why not go on a tour through Rwanda’s ecotourism destinations.

A Typical Itinerary in Rwanda

Rwanda is one of the famous countries inhabiting mountain gorillas. With arrival to Kigali City then proceed to Parc National des Volcans Rwanda. Head to hotel for dinner and rest for the next day. On day two, after early breakfast, we head for a briefing about Gorilla trekking in Rwanda at the Kinigi Station, then head straight to the slopes of the Forest. Gorilla trekking tours in Rwanda is no-longer quite strenuous, we send an advance team so you can move direct to the spot where the advance team has located the Gorillas.

Go Gorilla Trekking

Maximum permitted time with the Gorillas is a one hour, return to the lodge and rest. You can choose to go gorilla tracking in Parc National des Volcans with no advance team. Tracking the gorillas through the light mountain forest on the slopes of the Virunga is a magical experience. If you are lucky you can get to the gorillas, spend an hour with them, and be back at the base in time for a late lunch! Some gorilla families however are more elusive, and tracking can take a full day, especially when it is wet and muddy then back to the lodge for dinner and rest for the next day as you wait for your flight to your next destination for wildlife experience.

Iby’wacu Cultural Village

If you wish, you can visit the Iby’iwacu Cultural Village, which will give you a fascinating insight into the traditions and history of Rwanda’s people. Rwanda Gorilla Safaris gives you all the pleasure to travel to Rwanda and enjoy all the gorilla families and wildlife at a relatively cheaper prince hence enabling you achieve your life time dream. Book now and experience the Rwandan gorillas,wildlife, birds and all other primates including the unique cultures in Rwanda.

With very early have a cup of tea / coffee and proceed for a morning game drive to catch up with early raisers and predators returning to their hideouts. The game drive will reward you with chances to see a variety elephants, buffaloes, lions, Maasai giraffe, gazelles, impala, baboons, oribi, Butchel’s zebra, topi, bush baby, leopard and bush buck among others. Return to the Lodge and relax to lunch time. In the afternoon, you take a nature walk with a guide from the park, learning about the flora and fauna of the forest. Alternatively, you could go on a short trek to search for one of the troops of golden monkeys which inhabit the forest (this would need to be pre-booked, and is an additional cost).

November 10, 2018
Clarksdale: the Abandoned Capital of Blues

The aim of my little road trip in the American Delta was one, and one only. New Orleans was too far away for the time I had, and Memphis was just going to be an interesting, if overestimated, drive through. Where I really wanted to be was Clarksdale, the legendary home of blues, the town sitting between the Mississippi and the crossroads of the highways 49 and 61.
That junction is mostly known as the Devil’s Crossroads, and it’s where – according to the legend – Robert Johnson sold his soul to His Satanic Majesty. You can’t get more blues than that, oh wait… Muddy Waters and John Lee Hooker are from here! The list of names connected to this city is impressive and so is their display in the Delta Blues Museum, an air-conditioned mecca for the lovers of this genre. And when I talk about air-con I mean it: even by the american standards the temperature in there was insane, so that the girl at the counter had an electric heater next to her, while my car parked outside was roasting at 35°C (or whatever 90-95F is).

That said it’s rather understandable that my expectations bar was set quite high. I was expecting music being played in every bar and in every corner of the streets, and people hanging out with guitars and harmonicas to spontaneously set up a jam when they met as their way to greet each other.
However, as in most of the other towns I crossed, the streets were deserted. The heat surely wasn’t inviting but this looked more like a ghost town that just a siesta. I park the car for a quick patrol but, having not found a bar open, I head to the gas station for a soda.

“Are you driving a burgundy Malibu?”
“Y-Yes”
How did he know? How did the guy manning the dusty petrol station in an empty-looking town know which car I was driving, even when I parked it few blocks back?
He smiles, probably noticing my uneasy look, probably listing me amongst the guys who have seen too many movies and too little America. “Y’know, we see so few people here that when a newcomer arrives all the town knows”. He proceeds telling me that the last foreigner he’s seen was another italian guy, two weeks before, and that there’s not much to do in town outside the Juke Joint and Deep Blues festivals. That much I figured.

I sat on a bench, sipping my root beer, when the first people appeared. They came as the sun slipped behind the trees and stopped hammering down on tarmac and concrete. A middle aged man, a silvery bush of hair on dark chocolate skin, walked past with a smile “good afternoon how are you?”. Well, I am really fine thank you, that friendliness surprised me off guard. He walked on and, just as I was wondering what had just happened, another couple – mother and school-age son – came towards me, warmly greeted, and kept on walking. Every single person who walked past me was smiling and saying a couple of words, I never felt happier or more welcome.

There was a stark contrast between the liveliness of these people and the state of abandon of the buildings, promising blues shows that happened not less than one year before. There was a stark contrast between some of the simple wooden houses, and the modern and recently refurbished blues museum (courtesy of Billy Gibbons’s cash flow). But contrast seems to be the very description of the States, or at least the part I had visited thus far.

Clarksdale was beautifully disappointing, and surprising in many subtle ways. All the fabled musicians playing blues on their porch, as I found out at the museum, died a few years before my arrival, and the excessive heat prevented me from visiting one of their eateries for some sweaty deep-fried meat dish. But meeting those people, seeing those places and breathing that sticky air made it worth the miles I drove there on the never ending highway 61.

I left right on time, racing this storm that would have caught up with me few hour later in St. Louis.

June 28, 2017
Turkish Restaurants on Green Lanes: My Top List
Located north of Finsbury Park, Harringay has for long time been placed on the fringes of the explorable part of London. Thanks to its turkish-cypriot restaurants has been then discovered by the Time Out and, following a regeneration project put in place by the council, the area has smoothed its rough edges and polished up shop-fronts and pavements. Some of the charm have been lost in the process but, passing the Overground bridge is like stepping in a different place, a city within a city.

Some of the restaurants have pushed a bit the limit splashing money on some rather tacky decorations, but if people keep coming here is because they can find some of the best turkish food in town. Here are my favourite restaurants in Green Lanes, in reverse order.

Hala

Green Lanes, London N4 1LG | Google Maps
Phone: 020 8802 4883 | Menu

It was once little more than a glorified kebab shop with 4 tables at the back, now they expanded to match up their neighbours’ grandeur, however I wasn’t too impressed with their Yogurtlu Adana. They are masters of grilled meat and still my favourite take-away: their wraps and stews (coming with bread, salad and rice) to go are still the best in the area.

Antepliler

46 Green Lanes, London N4 1AG | Google Maps
Phone 020 8802 5588

The guys working here made their best to spoil the reputation of their restaurant by being smug and rude. Now they even opened four places back to back, each catering different food, making it rather confusing. Make sure you enter the one with a wooden-fired oven to get a lahmacun or a pide, the typical turkish pizza. They lost all their peculiarity swapping the quirky low chairs in carved wood with bland modern furniture but their baked products are unmatched.

Gökyüzü

26-27 Grand Parade, Green Lanes London, N4 1LG | Google Maps
Phone: 020 8211 8406 | Menu

Its large dining room, polished yet informal, makes Gökyüzü ideal for a group meal or a dinner date. During one of those not-quite-romantic dinners, me and my mate celebrated my departure from Green Lanes with a mix grill for two: a mountain of rice and cous-cous covered in layers of meat, every kind of meat they offer is there. Despite being famously voracious we struggled to finish it, despite what’s written on the menu it’s better shared in 3-4 people.

Diyarkabir

Grand Parade, 69 Green Lanes, Haringey, London N4 1DU | Google Maps
Phone: 020 8809 2777

I will never, ever remember how to spell the name of this restaurant. This, and the uninviting the shop sign contributed to the fact that this was the last restaurant I visited in the area. But after my first dinner here I made up the lost time coming back at every chance. Now they opened another larger flashier restaurant but this one is still the best, as confirmed by the locals crowding it.
The quality of the meat is superb and the starters are superior: not only you get salad and warm bread, but also a trio of dips, including one made with aubergine and tomato sauce… mouth watering!

Glossary
- Lahmacun is like a thin small pizza. The topping is minimal but tasty: tomato, minced lamb, parsley and onion or garlic. Can be wrapped up and filled with salad to make a great snack on the go.
- Pide is the turkish pizza, it looks like a calzone opened on top.
- Shish is the skewer.
- Adana is the typical sausage made with lamb mince and red peppers.
- Ayran is a yogurt-based drink slightly salted. Its flavour is quite unusual but I love to drink it with meat as it also helps soothing the effect of spices and hot peppers.
June 13, 2017
Tips for a Visit to Rome

Accommodation and Transport
For your accommodation I recommend to get a room in rione Monti, the area between Termini Station and the Coliseum. Conveniently located and central, though still traditionally inhabited by Romans and rich of musical and cultural events.
Many rooms are available on AirBnB, if you aren’t registered yet do it here to get a discount on your first reservation.

Stay in Rome like a Local… and save money on your first night!

Public transport in Rome is famous for being not too efficient. You will probably need it to reach the area you intend to visit, and from there you’d be mostly walking. The costs of tickets and pass: Single €1.50, day pass €6.00, 3 days €16.50, 1 week €24.00, 10 tickets “carnet” €14.00. Probably a “carnet” to share could be the best option.

Cycling could be a valid alternative, and there are many private company offering a reliable service. Otherwise you can live the dream and get a , which is arguably the best way to move around Rome. Bici&Baci offers both option.

Roma Pass

I’m not a big fan of city passes but if you intend to visit several museums this is good to jump the queues:
Valid for 3 days guarantees free entry to the first two museums visited, and reduced fee for all the others.
Unlimited free public transport for the duration of the pass.
It costs €36 and it’s worth it only if you’re planning to visit at least 4-5 museums…Vatican not included!

Food and water

Save money on lunch: unless you know exactly where to go you might get ripped off for a mediocre meal. Pack a sandwich for lunch or get a slice of pizza “al trancio” on the go!

Foursquare can be very handy for finding a place or reading reviews and getting recommendations. I’ve created a list for Rome, check it out!

Don’t buy expensive water from the shops Rome is plenty of fountains dispensing fresh drinkable water …bring your own bottle and refill it! You’ll also do the planet a big favour.
Enjoy your visit in Rome!

February 8, 2017
A Week in Rome

This is a flexible travel plan for those travelling in Rome and interested in covering all the basics, but also in visiting something unusual.

In this trip I will show you the Rome that can’t be missed, the one that will bring your history books to life before your eyes, and also the non-touristy Rome I learned to know with my friends born and bred there… and you will struggle to believe that those are two sides the same city. I’ll tell you where the Romans go to eat and where they meet in the evening for drinks, both in the city centre and in areas that you won’t probably find on your travel guide, so that you will get genuine food and authentic atmosphere.

A relentless activity of people, gestures, food and wine, have pushed Rome through the centuries and all of this is surprisingly concealed to most visitors. And this is where I will send you, mixing the history with the most modern culture: from the Forums to the MAXXI museum, from the paintings and frescoes of Caravaggio and Michelangelo to the street art of MURo, from the busiest flea market in town to one of the quiet hilltop parks from which terraces you can enjoy an unforgettable view of the sunset of such an incredible city.

Day 1: The Ancient Empire

Let’s start our trip where it all began.

Walk around the Colosseum admiring the magnificent arena. The entrance fee is €12 and it includes also the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill. If you decide to visit it make sure you buy the ticket ahead to jump the queue. From there take a stroll along Via dei Fori Imperiali and travel back in time in the Palatine Hill.

At the other side of the hill you’ll find the “Altare della Patria” (Altar of the Fatherland), a huge marble building of dubious taste which offers a great view over the Palatine Hill and the whole of Rome. Behind it runs a street (Via di San Pietro in Carcere) that climbs up to the Campidoglio, where you’ll find the square designed by Michelangelo and the famous “Lupa”: a bronze statue of a female wolf suckling two babies that will become the mythological founders of the city. It’s a small statue but with a strong meaning for the Roman people and their beloved football team.
It’s been a long day and it’s time to join the locals for a rewarding aperitivo in Monti. From 6pm onwards the streets and piazzas are animated by cheerful crowds. Have a glass of wine or a cocktail before heading to Ai Tre Scalini (Via Panisperna, 251) for dinner. Check out the live music events, as the new season will start again in September!

[box type=”bio”] Discover where to sleep and eat, and the best day-to-day tips on our guide to Rome[/box]

Day 2: Eat Pray… and Walk

Today you’re visiting the Vatican Museum, which will take up most of the day. In order to avoid the scary queues it’s best to buy the tickets online in advance. After the museums you can visit the majestic St. Peter’s Basilica, the access is free but controls are very strict, and a “respectful” dress code is required: make sure that shoulders and knees are covered. The access to the dome costs €7.
When leaving Vatican City follow the large boulevard unfolding in front of St Peter’s square to reach Castel Sant’Angelo, by the river Tevere. The entrance is €10.50 but it will also guarantee access to the terrace with a great view on Rome.

From there cross the Sant’Angelo bridge, lined with peddlers and beautiful statues, and follow the river going south until you reach the Ghetto. This is one of the most interesting areas of Rome, not only for its Synagogue, the remains of Portico of Octavia and the unique spirit of this ancient neighbourhood, but for the delicious kosher pizza. Have a trancio (a slice) of pizza rossa or bianca (red, with tomato, or white, whitout) at any traditional bakery… my favourite is Antico Forno del Ghetto (Piazza Costaguti, 30). If you want a proper dinner why not enjoying the unique roman-kosher cuisine? I usually go to Nonna Betta (Via Portico d’Ottavia, 16) or, if it’s full, I would go to Ba’ Ghetto (Via Livorno, 10). A restaurant, rather than a bakery, will push you closer to the top of your budget but trying the Jewish Artichoke is a priceless experience.

[box type=”download”] Did you know? On the Aventino Hill, between the Orange Grove and the Rose Garden there is a big wooden gate. If you peep through the keyhole you can see St. Peter’s Dome.[/box]

Day 3: Adventure on two wheels

After so much walking it’s time to give those feet some rest. Rent a bike and head to via Sannio, where you will find an authentic Roman market. More than just a typical market, it’s a stage where each vendor is contributing to a noisy, funny show.

After the market you should start following via Appia Nuova, to reach the archaeological park of Appia Antica. Here you’ll follow the ancient road that connected Rome with Puglia, the Empire’s door to the East, and you’ll spend a day in one of the most beautiful parks in the area. You’ll be one of the few tourists visiting the ancient ruins and, if you’re going on a weekend day, you’ll find plenty of locals cycling and walking in the park. I suggest to get a sandwich on the way there to stay in the budget, otherwise you can stop at the picturesque Hostaria Antica Roma or at the more affordable Hostaria Al Bivio.

The bikes are yours for 24 hours so why not use them for going out in the evening? The area of San Lorenzo is popular amongst the Romans for its nightlife and alternative vibe, join the crowds enjoying the mild Roman evenings and have a drink (or two). There are many bars to choose from… my favourite? It’s the Rive Gauche (Via dei Sabelli, 43), a lovely bar serving good wines and beers and, generally, only European products. They have an aperitivo (free food with every drink) until 21 or, if you miss it, you can try some late night supplì (deep fried ball of rice) from one of the many shops around via dei Sabelli.

Day 4: A day at the Beach

My suggestion is to hire a car for two days. Drive out of town and head to Ostia, where you can visit the well preserved remains of the ancient Roman harbour.

I would then recommend to hit the beach as soon as possible, but keep in mind that the savvy Romans don’t go to Ostia Lido, but Torvajanica, few miles south where access is free and the atmosphere more relaxed. The beach is divided in gates (cancelli), the best ones go from the 7th to Zion. For lunch, if you haven’t prepared sandwiches, go to the Seventh Gate restaurant, for a simple but authentic meal.

After a day in the sun I suggest a relaxing evening at the Pigneto. While the area is quite tricky to reach without a car (in fact you’ll mainly meet locals) is a gem of a pedestrian area rich of bars and good vibes. For dinner you should go to Rosti (Via Bartolomeo d’Alviano, 65) a laid-back typical restaurant with garden or, for something a bit more chic you might try Primo (Via del Pigneto, 46). Otherwise all the bars offer platters (taglieri) of cured meat (affettati) and cheese (formaggi).

Day 5: The Seven Hills of Rome

On a hot day, as an alternative to the beach, Romans like to go to the hills surrounding their city, to breath some fresh air and indulge in the food delicacies that make this area special.

A few minutes drive out of Rome and you’ll be surrounded by the lush hills of the park “Castelli Romani“. Head to Castel Gandolfo and drive around the Lake Albano.
Ariccia is a small village but really pretty and worth a visit. Have a stroll along the main road, Corso Garibaldi, until the terrace overlooking the country, and take a look inside the shops, especially the barber, where time seems to have stopped in the 50s. However the main attraction here is the food, served in restaurants called “fraschette”. Most of them are conveniently located on Via Borgo S. Rocco (try the Be Bop) but the best one is Fraschetteria Bianchi, 5 minutes walk along via dell’Uccelliera. If you prefer to eat in a more rural environment then you need to get a table by the lake at Le Fratte Ignoranti. Wherever you decided to go don’t leave without trying the famous porchetta (tasty hog roast) and the refreshing local wine.

[box type=”download”] Did you know? Now Castel Gandolfo, for the first time in history, has been opened to public by Pope Francis. Apparently the gardens are a heavenly sight but the single admission is €26 …ouch![/box]

Day 6/7: Classic Rome and its Piazzas

So far you’ve seen parts of Rome that most tourist don’t even know they exist. It’s time to go back to the basics and visit the most Roman of things: la piazza, the beautiful squares that are at the core of this city’s life.

Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Campo de’ Fiori, Fontana di Trevi… they are all there, at short walking distance one from the other. So you can decide where to go and when. I would recommend to start and end your day visit at Campo de’ Fiori: in the morning it’s covered by the famous fruit, vegetables and flowers market, while in the evening it’s busy with locals going out for a drink before dinner.

For lunch you should go to a restaurant that is an institution: it’s central, it’s packed but it never changed since the day it opened. Il Baffetto, in via Del Governo Vecchio, is where the Romans go when they are in the area. They don’t accept reservations so be prepared to queue… it’s worth it! There is also il Baffetto 2, which belongs to the same family but it’s more touristic; the food is still very good but the vibe is less authentic.

The works of the unmatched master Caravaggio can be found in many museums in Rome but, for reasons obscure to me, it seems that only few people know that in this area there are three churches where you can see some of his works. For free. There are three works in San Luigi dei Francesi, near Piazza Navona, two in Santa Maria del Popolo, near Piazza del Popolo, and one in Basilica di Sant’Agostino, also not far form Piazza Navona.

Few minutes walk from Campo de’ Fiori, on your way back to your room, you can stop at Open Baladin, a bar specialized in artisan beers from the vibrant italian microbrewery scene. They serve great food too!

April 26, 2016