Travel Like a Local

Category: En

  • Berlin Dark History

    Before visiting Berlin I accidentally came across a number of documentaries that ended up defining the aim of my visit. Starting with “the Life of Others“, I continued with more material on the infamous Stasi and the Nazis until I came to a very simple conclusion. Something obvious I never noticed: for nearly 60 years in a row Berlin has been the epicentre of the most ruthless dictatorships of Europe’s modern history. Left, Right, Black and Red, the flags changed and so did the methods, but not the level of oppression people in Berlin have been victim of.

    Stasi stays for Ministerium für Staatsicherheit, the Ministry for State Security (in most of English leaflets it will be mentioned as MfS), and was the “Sword and Shield of the Party”. The party being the SED, the socialist party that coordinated directly from Moscow. An incredible efficient and oppressive secret police that terrorised the whole East Germany – and probably more than that – for about 40 years, going from physical torture to a perfected system of psychological, way more subtle and damaging, torture. Their infrastructure was massive: they employed more full time agents than the Nazis have ever had and, most importantly, a widespread network of informant. It is said that one every 6 citizens were secret informers. Try to apply this statistic to your coworkers, friends, family, and you will understand the gravity of the situation.

    I was particularly interested in knowing more about the Stasi, this is where I mainly focused my research, and this is what I want to talk about. It scares me that, while the Nazis belong to my grandfather’s youth and have been thoroughly covered to make sure that nothing like that will – hopefully- never happen again, the Stasi belongs to my lifetime, I clearly remember when the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, but little is known and said about them. And consequently, are those agents still around? Are they still in positions of power?

    I don’t mean to give any history lesson, or write a document of any scientific relevance, but I want to raise the attention of this bit of history that is being slowly and quietly wiped under the carpet, and helping you find the most interest spots and museums in Berlin where you can get to know more.

    If you want to know more here is some material you might be interested to:

    The Lives of Others (The movie I mentioned before)

    Stasiland: Stories from Behind the Berlin Wall(Brilliant book by Anna Funder) (Kindle edition)

    The File (A book of a man who’s lived in Berlin in 1978 for research purposes, and went back 15 years later to find his own Stasi file)

    Stasi: The Untold Story of the East German Secret Police (Book by John Koehler who had his hands deep in the secret information jar)

    The picture in this article has been taken from the beautiful photogallery on the Denver Post.

  • A few things to know before going to Iceland

    Weather in Iceland and What to Wear

    Obviously the main concern is “how will the weather be”? All we can say is: be prepared and flexible. Generally in summer temperatures don’t go above 15°C but can also drop and fluctuate very quickly. I spent most of the time in t-shirt and hiking gilet (like this, very useful!) but I also had to wear my winter jacket at times and Martina made good use of her Icelandic woollen sweater.
    Layers are fundamental to quickly adapt to the temperature variations and, considering the amount of rain, an external waterproof layer and waterproof shoes (or at the very least water resistant) are mandatory.
    There is a say that goes “if you don’t like the weather in Iceland wait 5 minutes” which, according to our experience, is true only if you don’t like the sun. However when it comes out can be quite strong so a sun cream is advised, especially if you too come from a sun-deprived country.
    Check the official weather website for precipitation and wind conditions.

    Prices: is Iceland so Expensive?

    Nevermind the obnoxious food, the wild animals the hair-rising roads and the extreme weather, the aspect that scares most people of Iceland is its prices. But is Iceland really so expensive?
    Sadly the answer is yes. Car rental and accommodation nearly bled us dry. Eating out is expensive but still less than drinking out. Supermarkets such as Bonus or Nettò have similar prices to the UK even if such products as meat, fish and diary, are incredibly expensive. A pack of 8 slices of cheese (£2.5 at Sainsburys) comes for £7.
    Only the gas price was acceptable (About 251 ISK which is close to £1.30) and so for the tickets for most attractions and pools which normally for £3-4.

    Currency and Credit Cards

    The currency here is the Icelandic Krona (pl. Kronur) which, at the time of writing, is roughly 200ISK for £1. Card payments here are widely accepted, in some remote gas stations it is the only way to pay for fuel, so you’d better have one handy.
    Remember that if you spend 4.000ISK or more in a “tax free” shop you can get tax back!

    Food: the Icelandic Cuisine

    The local cuisine has always an important role travels, both for the curiosity of tasting something different and for getting close to such a relevant aspect of the local culture.
    In Iceland we found it to be nearly non-existent. Most of restaurants are limited to a choice of pizza and hamburgers, and there is virtually no trace of the fish and seafood that they seem to be relentlessly fishing. This is why we are so glad we brought our food from home, even if we managed to find a couple of nice restaurants.
    And yes, we tried the hakarl, the rotten shark… and I liked it (even if Martina doesn’t quite agree).

    Booze in Iceland

    Maybe because I live in England but I was shocked by how expensive booze is and how scarcely available. You can’t even find it at the supermarket (no, those beer cans are alcohol-free).
    What do they do during those dark winter days? Or during those long sleepless summer nights? I don’t have an answer to this but for buying beers the best option is Vínbúðin, state-run stores that can usually be found in main shopping centres. The prices are OK, and you get the chance to try some local brew.
    Remember that there is a duty-free shop both in the arrivals and departures at the airport, where booze costs half price or less.

    Pools: not just Blue Lagoon

    We didn’t go to the blue lagoon, we just didn’t want to part with €35 per person for a luxury tourism attraction.

    Geothermal heated pools are found everywhere in the country and serve pretty much the purpose of the pubs in the UK: people go there to relax, chat and socialize. The only difference, and downside, is that they don’t get drunk.

    Almost every decent sized town has its pools and the entrance is usually between 400-600ISK. If you want something that looks like the blue lagoon there is a valid alternative near Mývatn.
    It’s important to always thoroughly shower, without costume, before entering the pools.

  • Iceland on the Road: Our Travel Tips

    Roads

    roads

    Gravel road to Dettifoss

    I’ve read so many fearsome accounts on the Icelandic roads that, as soon as we left the modern area of Reykjavik and its smooth streets we braced ourselves expecting some twisted bumpy tracks.
    Now, it might be because I learnt to drive on mountains and unpaved roads, but I didn’t find it too hard to drive around Iceland. Also we haven’t driven on daily basis for many years now so we can no longer consider ourselves experienced and skilled drivers. The ring road is not a proper motorway but it’s a slick ride, being unpaved only for a short section on the south-east, and the other secondary roads are even easier: they might be a bit more narrow and have some potholes more but you are likely to be there by yourself so… no pressure.
    The only road we quite struggled to drive through, and we blessed our 4WD, was the 862 connecting Asbyrgi and Dettifoss, on the west side of the river. Apparently it will be paved soon but the 864 on the other side is apparently much easier.

    Always check the official website for roads conditions.

    Dangers of Icelandic roads

    SIGNS: Eindreð Brù, Blindheað… even if you’re not that fluent in Icelandic you will soon get the meaning of the road signs, the most recurrent of which are: single-lane bridge, blind rise and gravel road, and are often combined in pairs to make your driving experience more exciting.

    ANIMALS: Sheep enjoy grazing at the side of the street, and sometimes relaxing in the middle of it. They will run away as soon as you approach but their reaction can be quite unpredictable. They always travel in trios so make sure that they are all three on the same side. Birds tend to show suicidal tendencies flying a bit too close to speeding cars and, although they won’t mess it up as much as a sheep could, they might cause you to dangerously brake or steer. Keep it cool and don’t speed.

    Cars

    We are not ashamed to admit that we chose our car just because it was the cheapest option for a 4WD and because we found it funny to drive a car called Jimmy (technically it’s Jimny but for us it will always be Jimmy). That’s the extent of our automotive expertise.

    Although very reliable on gravel road and dirt tracks, Jimmy struggled on open, paved road, especially uphill. And tarmac made it incredibly thirsty.

    Jimmy

    Our beloved and noisy “Jimmy”

    Froads

    Now we know what “impassable” means

    Unless the infamous F-roads are a feature of your travel plan I don’t think a 4WD is strictly necessary. We had it easy on the few kms of unpaved road but most of the trip was on tarmac, where I wished I had a more performing and fuel-efficient car.
    Out of curiosity we checked the option of a small camper. A proper one will cost from £250 per day, while a Ford Transit like the one from Happy Campers is much cheaper, but still more expensive than the combined cost of our car and accommodation. If you didn’t book your accommodation in advance and you want maximum freedom and flexibility that could still be a good choice. However you will still have to find a solution for showering (you can use the local pools for that) and cooking, unless you want to splash out lots of money in expensive hot dogs and greasy pizzas.

    Maps

    Forget about Google maps: a classic paper map will never let you down even in the middle of nowhere. A handy book map was way to expensive so we opted for a folding one. I opted for a German one, just few months old: precise, reliable. It was also tear- and water- proof. No wonder they won the world cup.
    However we almost drove an extra 120Km around a peninsula because the shorter cut-through was omitted, and also we would have liked to have more details in some areas.
    If you’re planning a thorough exploration of the country, you’d better opt for the area-specific maps. I’ve done a little research and these maps are the most praised.

    Music

    We have a pile of 20 cds for our road trips, and I obviously let it home. We had to buy a second copy of the Sigur Ròs signature album and a less than remarkable collection of Icelandic Indie music (which still was way better than the radio).
    Such vast landscapes require an ethereal, dilated music reflecting the contrasting calm and violence of nature.
    Post rock bands, like Mogwai or Goodspeed you! Black Emperor, are the obvious choice, and Ágætis Byrjun seems to have been tailored around a trip on the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

  • London – Heathrow Airport and Back

    London – Heathrow Airport and Back

    The famous Heathrow airport is located in the western outskirts of London and it’s a massive international hub. It can be reached by tube (Piccadilly line), in zone 6, and has three different stops. Make sure you know which terminal you are flying from before you leave London: moving form one terminal to another might take time!

    London – Heathrow by:

    • Tube
    • Bus
    • Train
    • Taxi
    • Sleeping rough at the airport

    Tube

    As mentioned above, Heathrow is reached by the Piccadilly Line (the dark blue one) that runs across the whole city in a never-ending underground trip. It’s truly a bit of a long journey: from a central station such as Holborn or Covent Garden it takes up to one hour. But it’s also very comfortable as, if you manage to sit, you can dip in your book and relax, and it’s also the cheapest way to get there. Find out more in the getting around London guide:

    • One way ticket: £5,50
    • Oyster card fare (Monday-Friday,  06:30 – 0930 and 16:00 – 1900): £5,00
    • Oyster card fare: (Off-peak) £3,00

    Again, make sure you know which terminal to get off to. At the end of its line the tube splits in two and makes a loop. If you’re on the wrong train you can just get off ad Hounslow and change.

    Bus

    I never dared to take a bus – a proper London red bus not a coach – all the way to Heathrow, but few people I met working at the hostel did it. It’s only a realistic option very early in the morning: the line N9 will take you from Aldwych to the airport, with a hour-and-half long panoramic trip through the city.

    This is the PDF map for the N9 line.

    You can always opt for the National Express services (www.nationalexpress.co.uk), leaving from Victoria Coach Station. The coach has to wade through the London traffic so it might take one hour and a half during peak times.

    Train

    From Paddington station trains regularly leave westbound to Heathrow. It’s a very expensive way to reach the airport, but also the quickest: the Express only takes 15 minutes!

    The standard train service comes for £9,50 (£19 return), you can find more info here: www.heathrowconnect.com

    If you’re in a hurry try the Heathrow Express (www.heathrowexpress.com), the tickets cost from £20 (£34 return) up. Which makes more than £1 a minute for this trip!

    Taxi

    Taxi is obviously an option but, honestly, I don’t see the point, unless you have some heavy luggage and you need to limit the walking distances at a very minimum. It might be a quiet expensive option, and not too fast as it has, just like the bus, work its way through the London streets.

    Sleeping rough in Heathrow

    Early morning flights are always a pain in the neck but, oh coincidence, always the cheapest. Travelling in the weekend might cause you to miss the tube, as the service starts later than during the week. If you don’t want to take the N9 route, or any of the other option available then take the last tube the night before and have a sleep in the airport!

    Terminal 5 is not too bed: padded seats and dim lights. Try to stay as far as possible from the café and the lifts, if you don’t want to be woken up by a noisy buzz and the familiar “doors opening… doors closing“.

  • Hostels in Milan: Where to Sleep?

    Luckily I never had the need of finding a hostel or a cheap hotel in Milan, as the situation is quite unfriendly for the backpackers. Take the hotels out of the equation you have little choice left. It’s also easy to be tricked by those many properties tagging themselves “hostels” that are nothing but aseptic apartments stacked with bunk beds.

    Most of backpackers are inevitably staying at the huge HI hostel that sits in a slightly dodgy area far away from the city centre. I would not recommend to go there unless it’s your only option left. The options, so far, are two brand new youth hostels that have the vibe and the attitude to deserve such name.

    Ostello Bello

    Via Medici, 4 (MM1-3 Duomo, Tram 2-3)
    tel: +39 02 3658 2720; email: booking@ostellobello.com web: www.ostellobello.com
    I can say that this is the first real hostel in Milan. Opened in 2011 and located right in the city centre (few minutes walk from Duomo) is busting with energy and ideas. It’s very pricey, true, but aligned to the milanese standards. It also offers more than just a bed, as they organize small gigs and provide quality food. I often go there to eat something or have a pint of their artisan beer.

    “Everything you need to know about Milan”: Not quite a big book…

    Hostel Colours

    Via Desiderio, 24 (MM2 Lambrate, Tram 33-23, Bus 93-54-81)
    Tel: +39 0236744492; email: info@hostelcolours.com; web: www.hostelcolours.com
    There is a very recently opened hostel in Milan, I’ve seen its sign put up in 2012, and it’s called Hostel Colours. It’s few steps away from Lambrate station, well connected and perfectly located for the University and for the Lambrate Brewery, the Birrificio. It’ll come handy after a night of beer tasting over there.

  • Cocktails in Milan: a Tipsy Bike Ride

    Cocktails in Milan: a Tipsy Bike Ride

    “Are we there yet?” I shout wobbling on the shiny pebbles, my bike increasingly difficult to control.
    “Almost… it’s the second left. Or the third.”

    Cycling in Milan on a mild evening, is arguably the best way to spend a night out in town: flat wide roads and few cars around if you avoid the two circular roads enclosing the city centre.

    Unexpectedly, but rather unsurprisingly, my friend Ské brusquely swerves at the first road to the right. I follow him avoiding pedestrians and parked cars with an outstanding dribbling skill also known as sheer luck.
    “You see” he pontificates while we secure our bikes outside the next stop of our bar crawl “ordering a cocktail here is not just picking a name from a list: you have to explain the barman your feelings, or an inspiring episode, and he’ll do the rest.”. I’m quite confused by this but I see his point. I think. It’s been a long night so far, started a few kilometres – and rounds – ago…

    Bar Basso: a classic overture

    It was easy to choose how to start a cocktail bar crawl in Milan. Where else other than the Bar Basso? The most notorious establishment that introduced the art of cocktails in the city that became the capital of mixology.
    In this classic and sharp environment we joined the elegant Milanese ranks drinking out of glowing red fish-bowl glasses. As there is one thing you need to order: Negroni Sbagliato. It was invented here, by accident, changing the original Negroni recipe into something lighter and fresher: Campari, vermouth and prosecco (instead of gin). I love the story about this place being visited by jet-setters in the 60s – politicians, entrepreneurs, bandits… – flying in from Cortina, the classy winter retreat par excellence, to Linate just to enjoy a drink here.
    Those days are long gone so, instead of flying back to snowy slopes, we mounted on our bikes and headed off to our next destination, as dusk languidly set on the buildings.

    Working class Milan, world class drinks

    After 20 good minutes pedalling the alcohol of our first drink evaporated and we were ready to start from scratch. The Selz Bar welcomed us with Battista’s broad smile and good-natured banter. I was invited to taste their famous Bloody Mary, made with the proper spices, difficult to find in Italy. I duly obliged, promising to bring back some celery salt from the UK, as I tucked in the spicy thick drink that would constitute, together with a few toast nibbles, my dinner.
    Jokes and glasses are swapped at the bar counter while we delve into the leit-motif of the evening, Negroni Sbagliato, topped off with a final drink for a touch of class: shaken Campari, served in unique triangular glasses discontinued since the 70s.

    Morgan’s: A magicians show

    Back to us, to my friend’s cocktail bar philosophy and the difficult task of locking the bikes. We amble in the Morgan’s, a bar not far from Porta Ticinese, but safe from the its rowdy nights at the Colonne. The décor hits me as classy but welcoming, the playlist is well crafted. We talk to Jimmy, the master of ceremony here, and we decide that I shall have a Rocket Fuel. And so I do.
    At this point I should clarify that I generally don’t like cocktails other than Negroni Sbagliato, but this lime green fuel I just bought is incredible. A balance of sweet and sour, the alcohol level skilfully dosed. But my favourite part of this bar is how they do the cocktails, a show that by itself should be enough of a reason to come to Morgan’s. They pour the spirits and mixers in a large vessels, with no measurement aid whatsoever. They spin the oversized glass a few times before pouring all its content in the highball. I never saw them spilling a single drop or leaving more than one millimetre from the rim. You need to see it to believe it.

    Jimmy working his magic at Morgan’s

    Cocktails = Rita

    If Milanese citizens would be surveyed to choose a word to translate “cocktail” in Italian, they would probably choose “Rita“. This is the traditional place where to have a proper cocktail skilfully crafted by expert barmen, using only the highest quality ingredients. Very busy, as always, it’s concealed in a quiet street off the Naviglio Grande, past the first chaotic bit and at safe distance from designer-friendly via Savona. We gladly chain our bikes to the next pole available while our friends text us, after a 15 minutes fruitless search for a parking spot, giving up and going back home. We drag our weary selves in the lush environment for our last drink of the night, Rita will close soon but nobody seems to care. The signature cocktail here is the Vodka Zen, but I opt for a much easier Gin&Tonic, obviously with Hendricks.

    And so our night ends, looking at the shimmering lights and blurry shades reflecting on the Naviglio. Along its banks Milan lived its most intense and rough years, that seem to come back late at night when the last few people scurry away unsteady on their feet. We dig in profoundly philosophical matters while somehow cycling back home, where we fall asleep thinking of the cocktail bars to visit next time.

    During this evening we’ve cycled across half Milan (17km), visiting:

     

    No barmen were hurt during our rampage.
    Some livers were lightly damaged.

  • Fast Food in Milan: Quality and Taste

    Fast Food in Milan: Quality and Taste

    The places listed in our post on restaurants in Milan are neither expensive nor too formal but, if you’re looking for a quicker and cheaper meal, a diner where you can (when possible) sit a few moments for a bite, here’s some suggestions for you.

    Luini

    Via S.Radegonda
    (MM1-3 Duomo, MM1 San Babila, and any of the other lines going to Duomo)
    Opening hours: Monday 10-15 / From Tuesday To Saturday 10-20
    Mentioning the word “Luini” is enough to make my mouth water, any time of the day. One of the most legendary fast food parlours in Milan, it remained nearly unchanged for 50 odd years and made its way to the main tourist guides. Hidden in a short alley beside the Duomo it’s ideal if you’re visiting the city centre. As a bakery they offer a wide range of products, both sweet and savoury, but there is one reason to go there: the famous panzerotto. Shaped like a hand-size calzone, its soft fried dough is filled with tomato sauce and mozzarella. They have other fillings but the original one is undoubtedly the best. Try to avoid it around lunch time even though observing the diverse crowd might be interesting: students with rucksacks, traders in suit and tie, tourist holding maps and cameras.

    C’era una volta una piada

    Viale Coni Zugna, 37 (MM2 Sant’Agostino) Mon-Fri 10-15/19:30-23; Sat 10 – 23; Sun 19-23
    Piazza San Gioachimo, 5 (MM repubblica) Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00 / 19:00-23:00
    This place is worth visiting even if you’re not hungry, it’s not far from Porta Genova and it’s worth a 15 minutes walk from the Navigli. It’s like walking in a spooky kitchen designed by Tim Burton in a pastel pink overdose. It’s a small place and you need to find your space at the bar, behind which the piadina is prepared. In case you didn’t know, piadina is tipical of Bologna region, is a round flat pita-like bread folded and filled with…whatever. Take your time to go through the long list of options hung on the wall and order at the till. My favourite one is with Bresaola (dry cured beef meat) but tf you’re really hungry you should go for a piadina with prosciutto cotto (cooked ham) and you probably won’t need a second round.

    There’s also another one near Repubblica / Central Station, it’s got a nice upper floor but not as charming as the one in Coni Zugna. To be avoided lunch time during the week.

    Spontini

    Via Gaspare Spontini, 4  (MM1-2 Loreto, MM1 Lima)
    tel. 02 2047444; web: www.pizzeriaspontini.it
    Lunch: Mon-Sun 11,45-14,30; Dinner: Mon-Fri 18-23,30; Sat 18-24, Sun & Bank Holiday 18-23
    This is a pizza institution in Milan and one of the greasiest pizzas you’ll ever have. Pizza al trancio is one of the most popular snacks in Italy, spongier than the classic one served in pizzeria, it’s sold in squares or slices. The one you’ll eat here is baked following the same receipt since the 60s and you’ll only get the classic margherita: tomato sauce and an abundant layer of melted mozzarella cheese. You only have to choose between regular or large, considering that there’s only 50 cent difference it’s really a no-brainer isn’t it? You can find the original Spontini in Corso Buenos Aires, close to Loreto but they recently opened other three stores for your convenience:

    • Via Santa Radegonda, 11 (MM1-3 Duomo)
    • Viale Papiniano, 43 (MM2 Sant’Agostino)
    • Via Marghera, 3 (MM1 Wagner)
    • Via Cenisio, 37 (corner with Piazza Diocleziano)
    • Piazza 5 Giornate, 6

    La pizza dal 1964

    Via Casoretto, 44 (Bus 55, 62, 81)
    tel. 02 2846659; web: www.lapizzadal1964.com
    Tue-Sat 12.00-14.30/18.30-22.30; Sun 18-23; Closed Monday 

    As it can be easily guessed by the name it’s all about pizza here. Like Spontini this is one of the first pizza al trancio parlour in town, just a little less greasy. Also here the pizza margherita are baked in enormous round pans and served in slices. You can ask for regular or large size, and the slice is paid by the weight. In addition you can top it up with some simple and classic ingredients. The basic margherita is still the best choice for me but if you really can’t help asking for a topping, go for a salame piccante (it’s spicy pepperoni but do never ask for “pepperoni” in italy or you’ll get your pizza covered in peppers!)

    It’s not central, ideal if you live in the Lambrate area (like at the Hostel Colors for instance). If you show up late you might have to wait for a table and the take away queue is always painfully long. Good sign isn’t it?

    Giannasi

    Piazza Buozzi (MM3 Porta Romana, Bus 62)

    Forget about your diet and cholesterol levels the king of fries is awaiting for you! A nice kiosk placed in  Piazza Buozzi, a stone throw from Porta Romana, Giannasi can be easily spotted by the inviting smell even before you see it. Like a market stall you can find anything here from roast chicken, tasty take-away dishes and the magnificent choice of fried snacks. Which is the best one? You’ll have to try them all to find out!

  • Oyster Card: Pay as you go or Travelcard?

    Oyster Card: Pay as you go or Travelcard?

    If you’re going to spend few days in London, transport costs will take a good share of your budget. Find out how to optimize it at best!

    In a previous article we’ve seen in details how the public transport in London works, but some of you might still wonder: what do I need to buy? Oyster Card or Travel Card? Pay as you go or weekly pass?

    Well, let’s work it out. Mathematically.

    If you ask me I’d say that the Oyster Card is always the best option. You will be charged a £5 deposit when you purchase it and both the deposit and unused credit (up to £10) will be refunded when you hand it back at any tube station before leaving London. Some people like to hold on it in case they’ll need it again, or as a souvenir… especially if you’re lucky enough to get a special edition.

    From now on we will assume you won’t take the tube on rush hour. Don’t do that! Always travel off peak, it’ll save you money and stress. Moreover the rates I’m mentioning are for zones 1-2 which is pretty much all you’ll need. Unless you go, for instance, to Wimbledon or Heathrow.

    Pay as you go

    The Oyster Card works on a “pay as you go” basis, where the amount of the ticket gets deducted every trip and you will stop getting charged when you reach the daily pass capping.

    • You will be charged £2.30 for each tube trip until you reach the daily capping of £6.40, which is less than 3 trips and it’s £2 less than the previous year!
    • You will be charged £1.50 for each bus trip until you reach the daily capping of £4.40, which is just 5p more than 3 trips.

    This solution is ideal for a few days visit as it gives you maximum freedom. Top up your card and use is without stress.

    Travel Card

    The only travel card options available are for 7 days or 1 month, and they can both topped up on your Oyster Card

    • The 7 days travel card for the tube is £32.10, which is roughly 5 full days on the tube or less than 15 tube trips.
    • The 7 days bus pass is £21.00, which is less than 5 full days on the bus or less than 14 bus trips.

    As you can see the 7 days travel card or pass is worth considering if you’re staying at least 5 days in London, and you’re planning to travel a lot.

    Refunding an Oyster Card

    Now it’s easy to have a refund if you’re no longer going to use your Oyster. Touch the card on the yellow reader of the ticket machines you’ll find in any tube station, tap on “Oyster refund” and follow the instructions. You will receive up to £10 of your pay as you go credit and the £5 deposit in cash. After getting this refund you won’t be able to use your Oyster again.

    Buying from abroad

    If you’re meticulous and want to avoid any possible inconvenience upon arrival you can order your oyster card in advance, using this link. I never tried so if you do please let me know how it goes!

    I always recommend to take the bus rather than the tube, to be able to look around, and to walk as much as possible, but obviously London is big and if you have a busy agenda you might have to take the tube, especially if going through the city centre.

    I hope now it all looks less complicated, but each trip is different so feel free to ask for tailored suggestions!

  • Pizza in London: my Top 5 + 1

    Pizza in London: my Top 5 + 1

    Finding the best pizza in London is probably the Sacred Graal of the new Italian community here. Most non-Italian Londoners are obviously interested in the outcome of this research but it’s us who took on the quest with religious commitment.

    Me and my friends are very far from having explored all the pizzerias in London, but so far our research came with these results.

    Santa Maria

    15 Saint Mary’s Road, W5 5RA. Ealing Broadway (Central, District Line), South Ealing (Piccadilly Line)
    020 8579 1462 (no reservations)
    Website | Menu

    Santa Maria Pizzeria

    When my friends talked to me about this place I couldn’t believe they did seriously consider going there. I’m talking about Acton/Ealing, West London zone 3. I’ve been west of the Parliament only on the tube going to Heathrow, but never dared to actually go there.
    So one day I got on the tube for this never ending journey, topped by a good 10/15 minutes walking. The place is nice and cozy, so very authentic to look almost out of place, but it’s only when I gave the first bit that I understood why people go all the way there. The pizza here is made following the traditional neapolitan tradition, leaving the dough to rise for nearly 24 hours. That means that if you get there late they might have ran out of dough, so make sure you don’t make the trip in vain!

    Franco Manca

    Brixton, Market Row, SW9 8LD. Brixton (Victoria Line)
    020 7738 3021 (no reservations)
    See the website for more info and other branches.

    I’ll start this list with a classic. Loved and well known amongst both the Italians and the rest of London, Franco Manca gained notoriety thanks to the simplicity and quality of its pizza.
    Baked in the traditional Neapolitan way, pizzas are topped with natural ingredients and seasonal vegetables. Only 5-6 types of pizza are listed and, frankly, there’s never have been the need for more. The drinks are organic and the coffee is the real thing (when I say coffee in an Italian environment I only mean espresso).
    They opened a few more branches but I only visited the original one, at the entrance of the covered part of Brixton Market, coming from Electric Lane. I like the way it’s split in two by the market lane, with little tables crammed along the whitewashed brick walls, but you’re very likely to find long queues if you don’t go there early enough. But hey, that’s a good sign.

    Pappagone

    131 Stroud Green Rd, N4 3PX. Finsbury Park (Piccadilly / Victoria Line), Crouch Hill (Overground).
    020 7263 2114. Website | Menu
    Mon – Fri 10am – 3pm / 6pm – Midnight. All day Saturday, Sunday and Bank Holidays

    This is a place where I really feel home. The pizza is great, and so are the main courses but the main reason I go there regularly is because it’s the cheapest and quickest way to go back to Italy. The staff is entirely Italian and they loudly talk with each across the tables, creating a very characteristic and traditional “pizzeria atmosphere”. One of these dudes is at the door and greets you with a great smile. There are few stages of being a regular customer:

    • big smile (this comes for free, for everyone)
    • hand shake (after a few visits in a row)
    • hand shake and manly pat on the shoulder (for regular weekly visitors)
    • all of the above and calling you by first name (for those who gave up cooking at home)

    When I was living around there I managed to reach stage n.3, let’s see if you can do better! My favourite pizzas here are Valtellina or Parmigiana.
    A good place to visit, maybe after an afternoon in Crouch End or few pints ad the Falthering Fullback.

    Santore

    59 – 61 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL
    Farringdon (Circle, Metropolitan, Hammersmith & City Line), Kings Cross (Northern, Victoria, Piccadilly, Circle, Metropolitan, Hammersmith & City Line)
    020 7812 1488

    Quality Pizza in Exmouth market, in the area – Clerkenwell – that roughly a century ago until recent time was home to the Italian community in London. This area became recently a foodie paradise, and Santore is the place that set the quality threshold, being one of the first to open amongst those who are now shaping the area.
    I usually recommend this place for groups, at least 4 people, as its main characteristic is the possibility to order pizza by the meter. A long, long pizza is placed in the middle of the table and each one can take slices of different toppings. Great fun and great pizza, but don’t get involved in competitions on who can eat the longest…
    Usually one meter is good for 4 people but whenever we stick to this rule we always order a “dessert pizza” to share at the end. Also conveniently located next to Café Kick, great for warm up drinks or for after dinner tipples.

    Pizza East (Kentish Town)

    79 Highgate Rd, London NW5 1TL
    Mon – Thu 12:00 pm – 12:00 am / Friday 12:00 pm – 1:00 am/ Saturday 9:00 am – 1:00 am / Sunday 9:00 am – 11:00 pm
    020 3310 2000 | Website

    This little chain, started in Shoreditch, is quickly expanding. I’ve tried this successful joint in Kentish Town mainly because of a 20% I got with the ticket for a gig the same night at the Kentish Forum (sometimes it’s really worth reading the small print!). The atmosphere is not that traditional, but I appreciate their radical approach. Dim lights and a buzzing room with just the right amount of noise to have a private conversation without shouting. The pizza is really good: thick crust, crispy and well cooked, baked in wooden fire oven. However it’s a bit pricey: £8 for a margherita up to £13 for a more elaborate pizza.

    Sartori

    15-18 Great Newport Street, WC2H 7JE. Leicester Square (Northern, Piccadilly Line).
    Daily 12:00pm – 11:00pm
     020 7836 6308 | Website

    The pizza here is good, the atmosphere is a bit more posh than in the restaurants mentioned above but, considering we are in Leicester Square / Covent Garden area, they’re still doing well in terms of vibe.

    The quality of the dough and topping is high (my favourite is the Siciliana, with aubergines and parmesan cheese) and surely is one of the best options for eating in an area plagued by soul-less chains as Covent Garden.

  • Getting Around London: Tube, Bus and Oyster Card

    Getting Around London: Tube, Bus and Oyster Card

    Each time people ask me “how does the public transport in London work?” a shiver runs down my spine. It’s actually more complicated to explain than it is to understand. I reckon it’s a very clever system, a bit expensive, but efficient.

    During your stay you’ll either use the tube or the bus and, according to the length of your stay you might go for single tickets or passes, either in paper form or on a Oyster Card. Let’s see in details how it works and what suits you better.

    What’s best for a few days in London? Found your best Oyster deal on our special post.

    Tube, Bus, Overground

    With the exception of the Thames clipper and the Greenwich cable car, these are the means of transport that will carry you around London:

    The Tube

    The oldest underground system and probably the most famous with its iconic “mind the gap”, the Tube has recently turned 150 years old and survived the millions of Olympic visitors. You can take the Tube to the most famous places, including Heathrow airport.

    It’s the quickest way to get across the city, but also the most expensive. If you’re in London for a visit you’ll probably be limited to the zones 1-2 in case you were wondering what that means when you try to buy a ticket or a pass.

    The Bus

    The world famous double decker buses are one of the most representative symbols of London, and they can be found in key-rings and on fridges all over the world.

    They recently retired the good ol’ routemaster and replaced it with a brand new one, with a futuristic design, that can be found on the routes 38, 9, 11 and 24.

    A ticket or a bus pass will cover all the 6 zones, with no time limit, but if you have to change don’t forget that you will be charged (in case you have a pay-as-you-go oyster) a fare on each bus.

    In the unlikely event the weather is rough, you just missed your bus, and you want to know if you have time for one more drink before the next bus, check this very accurate website: countdown.tfl.gov.uk

    Follow this link for a full bus map.

    Night bus

    Technically there’s nothing different from the above buses but these are real life-savers. Some lines run on 24 hours, some they just slightly change the route and add a ‘N’ before the number. Wherever you’re going to spend your night the night buses will take you home (unless you fall asleep and wake up in a deposit or in the middle  of nowhere).

    Overground

    A urban train network, the Overground is often underestimated. However it’s very useful to cross the city west-east. It’s been recently extended to cover many areas where the Tube doesn’t go, especially where the “east line” were supposed to be, crossing the east end and connecting popular areas such as Hoxton and Shoreditch. The Overground trains are not included in the TFL passes and you will be charged on your pay-as-you-go money.

    Tickets and Passes

    Single ticket

    The memories of my first visit in London will always start with me arriving in Stratford (way before the Olympics, it was still pretty rough), getting the tube to St. Paul’s and being charged £4. Five stops, nearly £1 per stop. Lesson learned: never buy a single ticket unless you can’t really avoid that. To know how much is a tube ride from A to B click here. It might happen to buy a single ticket for a bus, you can usually do that on board or at the automatic machines that can be found at some stops. The bus ticket is £2.50 and can only be paid via contactless, no cash accepted.

    Daily pass

    If you seek peace of mind and you want to take any necessary mean of transport without worrying about the maths, the daily pass is your choice (unless you stay for more than 4-5 days):

    • Daily travelcard tube + bus: £12.00 (zone 1-4)
    • Bus daily pass: £5.00 (travel the day of purchase up to 4.29am the following day)

    Oyster Card

    If you’re staying for longer than a weekend and you want to make your life even easier, or you want one more souvenir to take back home, then go for an Oyster Card. It can be obtained at any tube station and requires a £5 deposit that you will get back once you won’t need it any more. You’ll need to top it up, and you have pretty much two options:

    Pay as you go

    If you have a laid back approach and no schedule, if you don’t know whether you’re going to barely take a bus a day or if you’re going to spend more time on a tube than actually at ground level, this is your option.

    Top your Oyster up and touch it on the reader each time you get in the tube or on a bus. Each access will deduct a single fare, that’s way cheaper than buying tickets:

    • Single access to Tube with Oyster: £2.30 (£2.90 peak: 6.30-9.30 / 16.00-19.00 Mon-Fri)
    • Single trip on bus with Oyster: £1.50

    What if you take the Tube 100 times in one day? You won’t be charged £230, as there is a limit, that equals the cost of a daily pass:

    • Price cap tube + bus: £6.40 (£2 cheaper than in 2014!)
    • Price cap bus: £4,40

    To know the exact amount of each fare you can use this this service.

    Weekly and Monthly pass

    On your Oyster you can also put a weekly or monthly pass, available for tube+bus or just bus. At this stage you can be considered an advanced user, so you can read the price tables easily:

    Many people don’t know that pass and pay-as-you-go can be on the same Oyster at the same time, which is the beauty of this system. For instance you can have a bus pass some credit, so that when you take your occasional tube or overground train, which are not covered from that pass, money will be deducted from your allowance. If you really want to know more enjoy the TFL website: www.tfl.gov.uk