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  • How to Experience Uganda like a Local

    How to Experience Uganda like a Local

    The best way to understand Uganda is to experience it as locals do. This means going beyond tourist sites and engaging in everyday activities—taking a ride in a shared taxi, eating from neighborhood food stalls, and spending time in community spaces. These simple moments offer a clearer picture of daily life than any guided tour ever could.

    Traveling this way requires curiosity and an open mind. It’s about observing, participating in, and respecting traditions rather than just passing through. This guide highlights practical ways to explore Uganda and move beyond sightseeing and connect personally with Uganda.

    Eat Where the Locals Eat: Ugandan Cuisine

    Uganda’s food culture is deeply tied to its agricultural traditions, with meals often centered around fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Restaurants catering to tourists exist, but to experience authentic Ugandan cuisine, eating where the locals do is essential. Small roadside eateries, open-air markets, and neighborhood food stalls provide an unfiltered look at the country’s culinary habits, from preparation methods to communal dining customs.

    Use Public Transport & Boda Bodas

    Navigating Uganda like a local involves using the country’s informal yet efficient transport system. Public transport in Uganda operates without rigid schedules, with vehicles departing only when full. While this system may seem chaotic to first-time visitors, it reflects the country’s adaptable approach to daily commuting.

    Matatus – Shared Taxis for City and Suburban Travel

    Matatus are the most common form of public transport in urban areas. These white minibuses, marked with a blue checkered stripe, follow fixed routes but lack designated stops. Passengers flag them down or disembark at their preferred location. Fares are affordable and vary based on distance, making matatus a cost-effective way to get around.

    Inside, seating is tight, and conductors—locally known as touts—manage fare collection and passenger coordination. First-time users should carry small bills in Ugandan shillings and be prepared for occasional delays due to unpredictable traffic. While matatus can feel overcrowded, they offer a firsthand look at everyday commuting culture, where conversations, music, and urban street life unfold within the vehicle.

    Boda Bodas – The Fastest Way to Move Through Traffic

    For short distances, boda bodas (motorcycle taxis) provide the quickest way to navigate Uganda’s often congested roads. They operate independently, with riders waiting at designated boda stages or offering rides along busy streets. Negotiating the fare before starting the trip is essential, as prices fluctuate depending on distance and time of day.

    Boda bodas offer flexibility, but safety should be a priority. Choosing riders with helmets, avoiding high-speed highway rides, and using regulated boda-hailing apps such as SafeBoda can reduce risk. While bodas are a daily necessity for many Ugandans, tourists should exercise caution, especially when unfamiliar with local road conditions.

    Attend Traditional Events & Festivals

    Uganda’s cultural identity is reflected in its traditional events and festivals, which unite communities for ceremonies, performances, and celebrations. Attending these gatherings provides tourists with a chance to witness authentic expressions of music, dance, storytelling, and rituals that have been passed down through generations.

    Imbalu Circumcision Ritual (Bagisu Initiation Ceremony)

    One of the most prominent cultural ceremonies is the Imbalu Circumcision Ritual among the Bagisu people of eastern Uganda. Held every two years in even-numbered years, this initiation ceremony marks the transition of boys into adulthood through public circumcision. The event is accompanied by drumming, dancing, and processions through villages, creating an intense and profoundly symbolic atmosphere.

    Tourists can observe the cultural significance of this practice, but participation should be approached with respect, as the ceremony holds profound meaning for the Bagisu community. It is advisable to attend with a local guide who can explain the traditions and protocols involved.

    Buganda Kingdom Events

    In Buganda, the Kabaka’s Birthday Run and other royal ceremonies provide insight into the kingdom’s traditions. The Buganda Kingdom Coronation Anniversary is another significant event, celebrating the Kabaka’s reign with public gatherings and cultural performances.

    Held at key sites such as the Lubiri (royal palace) or Kasubi Tombs, these events feature traditional dance, music, and speeches by cultural leaders. Tourists attending these ceremonies can better understand Buganda’s monarchy and its influence on Uganda’s history.

    Nyege Nyege Festival (Music & Arts Celebration)

    For those interested in contemporary cultural experiences, the Nyege Nyege Festival has gained international recognition as East Africa’s leading music and arts festival. Held annually in Jinja, this four-day event showcases a wide range of musical styles, from traditional Ugandan rhythms to electronic and experimental sounds.

    The festival attracts artists and audiences across Africa and beyond, creating a melting pot of cultures and creative expression. It is also known for its lively atmosphere, with performances taking place along the banks of the River Nile.

    Conclusion

    Experiencing Uganda beyond the conventional tourist itinerary provides a deeper understanding of the country’s cultural and social fabric. Engaging in everyday activities, using public transport, and attending local gatherings present an unfiltered view of life in Uganda. Visiting community markets, dining in informal eateries, and interacting with residents outside structured tours create opportunities for meaningful exchanges that go beyond surface-level observations.

    Approaching travel with curiosity and adaptability allows tourists to gain insight into often-overlooked traditions, customs, and local perspectives. While navigating informal markets, using shared transport, or participating in cultural events may require adjusting to unfamiliar settings, these experiences offer a rare opportunity to see Uganda from a local point of view.

    Responsible engagement is key to enriching these experiences for both visitors and communities. Respect for customs, openness to local ways of life, and appreciation for everyday routines foster more authentic connections. Observing how people live, work, and celebrate enhances personal travel experiences and contributes to a more thoughtful and considerate approach to tourism in Uganda.

  • Oyster Card: Pay as you go or Travelcard?

    Oyster Card: Pay as you go or Travelcard?

    If you’re going to spend few days in London, transport costs will take a good share of your budget. Find out how to optimize it at best!

    In a previous article we’ve seen in details how the public transport in London works, but some of you might still wonder: what do I need to buy? Oyster Card or Travel Card? Pay as you go or weekly pass?

    Well, let’s work it out. Mathematically.

    If you ask me I’d say that the Oyster Card is always the best option. You will be charged a £5 deposit when you purchase it and both the deposit and unused credit (up to £10) will be refunded when you hand it back at any tube station before leaving London. Some people like to hold on it in case they’ll need it again, or as a souvenir… especially if you’re lucky enough to get a special edition.

    From now on we will assume you won’t take the tube on rush hour. Don’t do that! Always travel off peak, it’ll save you money and stress. Moreover the rates I’m mentioning are for zones 1-2 which is pretty much all you’ll need. Unless you go, for instance, to Wimbledon or Heathrow.

    Pay as you go

    The Oyster Card works on a “pay as you go” basis, where the amount of the ticket gets deducted every trip and you will stop getting charged when you reach the daily pass capping.

    • You will be charged £2.30 for each tube trip until you reach the daily capping of £6.40, which is less than 3 trips and it’s £2 less than the previous year!
    • You will be charged £1.50 for each bus trip until you reach the daily capping of £4.40, which is just 5p more than 3 trips.

    This solution is ideal for a few days visit as it gives you maximum freedom. Top up your card and use is without stress.

    Travel Card

    The only travel card options available are for 7 days or 1 month, and they can both topped up on your Oyster Card

    • The 7 days travel card for the tube is £32.10, which is roughly 5 full days on the tube or less than 15 tube trips.
    • The 7 days bus pass is £21.00, which is less than 5 full days on the bus or less than 14 bus trips.

    As you can see the 7 days travel card or pass is worth considering if you’re staying at least 5 days in London, and you’re planning to travel a lot.

    Refunding an Oyster Card

    Now it’s easy to have a refund if you’re no longer going to use your Oyster. Touch the card on the yellow reader of the ticket machines you’ll find in any tube station, tap on “Oyster refund” and follow the instructions. You will receive up to £10 of your pay as you go credit and the £5 deposit in cash. After getting this refund you won’t be able to use your Oyster again.

    Buying from abroad

    If you’re meticulous and want to avoid any possible inconvenience upon arrival you can order your oyster card in advance, using this link. I never tried so if you do please let me know how it goes!

    I always recommend to take the bus rather than the tube, to be able to look around, and to walk as much as possible, but obviously London is big and if you have a busy agenda you might have to take the tube, especially if going through the city centre.

    I hope now it all looks less complicated, but each trip is different so feel free to ask for tailored suggestions!

  • Visit the Rwenzori Mountains National Park

    Visit the Rwenzori Mountains National Park

    About Mt. Rwenzori National Park

    Rwenzori Mountains National Park is home to the legendary. Rwenzori Mountains –Uganda’s highest mountain and the only block mountain that is ice-capped. Mount Rwenzori is 5109m (Margherita peak) and is found on Mount Stanley. Other peaks exist on glaciated mountain ranges like Mt. Emin (4791m), Mt. Baker (4842m), Luigi da Savoia (4527m), Mt. Speke (4890m), and Mt. Gessi (4715m).

    The Rwenzori Mountains National Park also provides refuge to over 70 mammal species and 217 bird species which include the Albertine Rift Valley endemic species of birds. Mt. Rwenzori National Park was gazetted in 1991 and officially, it was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994.

    Rwenzori Mountains National Park extends 996 sq. km and comprises lush vegetation, rocky outcrops, lakes, cliffs, and snow-capped peaks.

    Different mammals to explore on a safari to the Rwenzori Mountains National Park. They include bushbucks, buffaloes, elephants, duikers, leopards, Rwenzori otters, bushbucks, and primates. The primates in the Rwenzori Mountains Park include chimpanzees, olive baboons, blue monkeys, red-tailed monkeys, and black and white colobus monkeys.

    Birds –over 217 bird species that survive in the Rwenzori National Park include the Rwenzori nightjars, Rwenzori double-collared sunbird, Rwenzori turacos, Archer’s robin-chat, lammergeyers, red-throated leather, and black eagles. In addition, there are 6 species of amphibians and reptiles including the 3 horned chameleon.

    Vegetation zone variations include afro-montane at 1765m to 2600m, bamboo zone 2600 to 3000m, heather zone 3000 to 3800, moorland 3800 m to 4500 meters, and lastly, the rocky glacier at 4500 meters and above.

    Things to do during the self-drive safari in the Rwenzori National Park

    Rwenzori Mountain climbing

    Mountaineering is the leading adventure any enthusiastic climber/hiker shouldn’t miss to enjoy on a Uganda road trip in the Rwenzori Mountains National Park. The available hiking or trekking routes to the summits of the legendary Rwenzori Mountains include the Central Circuit and Kilembe trail.

    En route to the Margherita peak, there are several camps to consider for overnight stay including Mutinda camp (3588m), Samiliara camp (3170m), Kalalama camp (3134m), Butawu camp and Hunwick’s camp (3974m), Sine hut (2596m), and Kiharo camp (3460m).

    Birding

    Over 217 bird species are distributed in the various habitats of Rwenzori Mountains National Park and include many Albertine rift endemic species. The birds to expect to search during the birding excursion in the Rwenzori Mountains include Lagden’s bush-shrike, slender-billed starling, Rwenzori turacos, Archer’s robin chat, ross’s turacos, laughing dove, white-napped pigeon, dimeric cuckoos, white-rumped swift, and levaillant’s cuckoos. Additional birds to sight include strange weavers, cinnamon-chested bee-eaters, and barred long-tailed cuckoos, to mention but a few.

    When to visit

    The dry season is the best time of the year to explore the Rwenzori Mountain ranges. This is from the longest dry season from June to September and short dry months; December, January to February. What to pack for the Rwenzori Mountaineering adventure; sleeping bags, crampons, sunglasses, trekking pants, snacks, gloves, a poncho, a pair of socks, an insulated jacket, mountaineering boots, first aid kit, and poncho.

  • Pizza in London: my Top 5 + 1

    Pizza in London: my Top 5 + 1

    Finding the best pizza in London is probably the Sacred Graal of the new Italian community here. Most non-Italian Londoners are obviously interested in the outcome of this research but it’s us who took on the quest with religious commitment.

    Me and my friends are very far from having explored all the pizzerias in London, but so far our research came with these results.

    Santa Maria

    15 Saint Mary’s Road, W5 5RA. Ealing Broadway (Central, District Line), South Ealing (Piccadilly Line)
    020 8579 1462 (no reservations)
    Website | Menu

    Santa Maria Pizzeria

    When my friends talked to me about this place I couldn’t believe they did seriously consider going there. I’m talking about Acton/Ealing, West London zone 3. I’ve been west of the Parliament only on the tube going to Heathrow, but never dared to actually go there.
    So one day I got on the tube for this never ending journey, topped by a good 10/15 minutes walking. The place is nice and cozy, so very authentic to look almost out of place, but it’s only when I gave the first bit that I understood why people go all the way there. The pizza here is made following the traditional neapolitan tradition, leaving the dough to rise for nearly 24 hours. That means that if you get there late they might have ran out of dough, so make sure you don’t make the trip in vain!

    Franco Manca

    Brixton, Market Row, SW9 8LD. Brixton (Victoria Line)
    020 7738 3021 (no reservations)
    See the website for more info and other branches.

    I’ll start this list with a classic. Loved and well known amongst both the Italians and the rest of London, Franco Manca gained notoriety thanks to the simplicity and quality of its pizza.
    Baked in the traditional Neapolitan way, pizzas are topped with natural ingredients and seasonal vegetables. Only 5-6 types of pizza are listed and, frankly, there’s never have been the need for more. The drinks are organic and the coffee is the real thing (when I say coffee in an Italian environment I only mean espresso).
    They opened a few more branches but I only visited the original one, at the entrance of the covered part of Brixton Market, coming from Electric Lane. I like the way it’s split in two by the market lane, with little tables crammed along the whitewashed brick walls, but you’re very likely to find long queues if you don’t go there early enough. But hey, that’s a good sign.

    Pappagone

    131 Stroud Green Rd, N4 3PX. Finsbury Park (Piccadilly / Victoria Line), Crouch Hill (Overground).
    020 7263 2114. Website | Menu
    Mon – Fri 10am – 3pm / 6pm – Midnight. All day Saturday, Sunday and Bank Holidays

    This is a place where I really feel home. The pizza is great, and so are the main courses but the main reason I go there regularly is because it’s the cheapest and quickest way to go back to Italy. The staff is entirely Italian and they loudly talk with each across the tables, creating a very characteristic and traditional “pizzeria atmosphere”. One of these dudes is at the door and greets you with a great smile. There are few stages of being a regular customer:

    • big smile (this comes for free, for everyone)
    • hand shake (after a few visits in a row)
    • hand shake and manly pat on the shoulder (for regular weekly visitors)
    • all of the above and calling you by first name (for those who gave up cooking at home)

    When I was living around there I managed to reach stage n.3, let’s see if you can do better! My favourite pizzas here are Valtellina or Parmigiana.
    A good place to visit, maybe after an afternoon in Crouch End or few pints ad the Falthering Fullback.

    Santore

    59 – 61 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL
    Farringdon (Circle, Metropolitan, Hammersmith & City Line), Kings Cross (Northern, Victoria, Piccadilly, Circle, Metropolitan, Hammersmith & City Line)
    020 7812 1488

    Quality Pizza in Exmouth market, in the area – Clerkenwell – that roughly a century ago until recent time was home to the Italian community in London. This area became recently a foodie paradise, and Santore is the place that set the quality threshold, being one of the first to open amongst those who are now shaping the area.
    I usually recommend this place for groups, at least 4 people, as its main characteristic is the possibility to order pizza by the meter. A long, long pizza is placed in the middle of the table and each one can take slices of different toppings. Great fun and great pizza, but don’t get involved in competitions on who can eat the longest…
    Usually one meter is good for 4 people but whenever we stick to this rule we always order a “dessert pizza” to share at the end. Also conveniently located next to Café Kick, great for warm up drinks or for after dinner tipples.

    Pizza East (Kentish Town)

    79 Highgate Rd, London NW5 1TL
    Mon – Thu 12:00 pm – 12:00 am / Friday 12:00 pm – 1:00 am/ Saturday 9:00 am – 1:00 am / Sunday 9:00 am – 11:00 pm
    020 3310 2000 | Website

    This little chain, started in Shoreditch, is quickly expanding. I’ve tried this successful joint in Kentish Town mainly because of a 20% I got with the ticket for a gig the same night at the Kentish Forum (sometimes it’s really worth reading the small print!). The atmosphere is not that traditional, but I appreciate their radical approach. Dim lights and a buzzing room with just the right amount of noise to have a private conversation without shouting. The pizza is really good: thick crust, crispy and well cooked, baked in wooden fire oven. However it’s a bit pricey: £8 for a margherita up to £13 for a more elaborate pizza.

    Sartori

    15-18 Great Newport Street, WC2H 7JE. Leicester Square (Northern, Piccadilly Line).
    Daily 12:00pm – 11:00pm
     020 7836 6308 | Website

    The pizza here is good, the atmosphere is a bit more posh than in the restaurants mentioned above but, considering we are in Leicester Square / Covent Garden area, they’re still doing well in terms of vibe.

    The quality of the dough and topping is high (my favourite is the Siciliana, with aubergines and parmesan cheese) and surely is one of the best options for eating in an area plagued by soul-less chains as Covent Garden.

  • Getting Around London: Tube, Bus and Oyster Card

    Getting Around London: Tube, Bus and Oyster Card

    Each time people ask me “how does the public transport in London work?” a shiver runs down my spine. It’s actually more complicated to explain than it is to understand. I reckon it’s a very clever system, a bit expensive, but efficient.

    During your stay you’ll either use the tube or the bus and, according to the length of your stay you might go for single tickets or passes, either in paper form or on a Oyster Card. Let’s see in details how it works and what suits you better.

    What’s best for a few days in London? Found your best Oyster deal on our special post.

    Tube, Bus, Overground

    With the exception of the Thames clipper and the Greenwich cable car, these are the means of transport that will carry you around London:

    The Tube

    The oldest underground system and probably the most famous with its iconic “mind the gap”, the Tube has recently turned 150 years old and survived the millions of Olympic visitors. You can take the Tube to the most famous places, including Heathrow airport.

    It’s the quickest way to get across the city, but also the most expensive. If you’re in London for a visit you’ll probably be limited to the zones 1-2 in case you were wondering what that means when you try to buy a ticket or a pass.

    The Bus

    The world famous double decker buses are one of the most representative symbols of London, and they can be found in key-rings and on fridges all over the world.

    They recently retired the good ol’ routemaster and replaced it with a brand new one, with a futuristic design, that can be found on the routes 38, 9, 11 and 24.

    A ticket or a bus pass will cover all the 6 zones, with no time limit, but if you have to change don’t forget that you will be charged (in case you have a pay-as-you-go oyster) a fare on each bus.

    In the unlikely event the weather is rough, you just missed your bus, and you want to know if you have time for one more drink before the next bus, check this very accurate website: countdown.tfl.gov.uk

    Follow this link for a full bus map.

    Night bus

    Technically there’s nothing different from the above buses but these are real life-savers. Some lines run on 24 hours, some they just slightly change the route and add a ‘N’ before the number. Wherever you’re going to spend your night the night buses will take you home (unless you fall asleep and wake up in a deposit or in the middle  of nowhere).

    Overground

    A urban train network, the Overground is often underestimated. However it’s very useful to cross the city west-east. It’s been recently extended to cover many areas where the Tube doesn’t go, especially where the “east line” were supposed to be, crossing the east end and connecting popular areas such as Hoxton and Shoreditch. The Overground trains are not included in the TFL passes and you will be charged on your pay-as-you-go money.

    Tickets and Passes

    Single ticket

    The memories of my first visit in London will always start with me arriving in Stratford (way before the Olympics, it was still pretty rough), getting the tube to St. Paul’s and being charged £4. Five stops, nearly £1 per stop. Lesson learned: never buy a single ticket unless you can’t really avoid that. To know how much is a tube ride from A to B click here. It might happen to buy a single ticket for a bus, you can usually do that on board or at the automatic machines that can be found at some stops. The bus ticket is £2.50 and can only be paid via contactless, no cash accepted.

    Daily pass

    If you seek peace of mind and you want to take any necessary mean of transport without worrying about the maths, the daily pass is your choice (unless you stay for more than 4-5 days):

    • Daily travelcard tube + bus: £12.00 (zone 1-4)
    • Bus daily pass: £5.00 (travel the day of purchase up to 4.29am the following day)

    Oyster Card

    If you’re staying for longer than a weekend and you want to make your life even easier, or you want one more souvenir to take back home, then go for an Oyster Card. It can be obtained at any tube station and requires a £5 deposit that you will get back once you won’t need it any more. You’ll need to top it up, and you have pretty much two options:

    Pay as you go

    If you have a laid back approach and no schedule, if you don’t know whether you’re going to barely take a bus a day or if you’re going to spend more time on a tube than actually at ground level, this is your option.

    Top your Oyster up and touch it on the reader each time you get in the tube or on a bus. Each access will deduct a single fare, that’s way cheaper than buying tickets:

    • Single access to Tube with Oyster: £2.30 (£2.90 peak: 6.30-9.30 / 16.00-19.00 Mon-Fri)
    • Single trip on bus with Oyster: £1.50

    What if you take the Tube 100 times in one day? You won’t be charged £230, as there is a limit, that equals the cost of a daily pass:

    • Price cap tube + bus: £6.40 (£2 cheaper than in 2014!)
    • Price cap bus: £4,40

    To know the exact amount of each fare you can use this this service.

    Weekly and Monthly pass

    On your Oyster you can also put a weekly or monthly pass, available for tube+bus or just bus. At this stage you can be considered an advanced user, so you can read the price tables easily:

    Many people don’t know that pass and pay-as-you-go can be on the same Oyster at the same time, which is the beauty of this system. For instance you can have a bus pass some credit, so that when you take your occasional tube or overground train, which are not covered from that pass, money will be deducted from your allowance. If you really want to know more enjoy the TFL website: www.tfl.gov.uk

  • 3 Great Places in Milan to hang out

    3 Great Places in Milan to hang out

    There are a few really cool places that we love to regularly visit in Milan. They’re quite eclectic and we found it difficult to categorize them. Yes, we go there for food but we couldn’t fit them in our article on the restaurants in Milan as they’re way more than just a restaurant. Let’s find them out!

    Santeria

    Address: Via Ettore Paladini, 8 Milano (Bus 54, Tram 5)
    Phone no.: 02 36685216 / 02 36685215 (shop) 
    Milan should be full of places like this. A nice spot, based on a simple solid idea, that would fit perfectly in ShoreditchPrenzlauerberg or Williamsburg, and that (sadly) in Milan is the first and only of its kind.
    Breakfast, brunch, lunch, aperitivi, vintage clothes records and book shop, gigs, indie movies and co-working space. If they also had mattresses to lay down between the tables there wouldn’t be a reason to leave Santeria.
    Visitat their website: www.santeriamilano.it

    Ostello Bello

    Address: Via Medici, 4  20123 Milano (MM1-3 Duomo, Tram 2-3, how to get there)
    Phone no.: 02 3658 2720
    Not only it’s one of the very few authentic hostels in Milan, but Ostello Bello offers some of its services and activities to a wider audience. Anyone can visit it without necessarily having to spend a night. They have food all day round and leisure activities from music to games, sometimes they’re improvised so any day is good to pop there. If you’re after a meaty lunch make sure to go there for the monthly “Turbo Burger” day. Only one item on the menu, guess what it is?

    Visit their website: www.ostellobello.com and follow them on facebook to keep up to date.

    La Balera dell’Ortica

    Address: Via Giovanni Antonio Amadeo 78, Milano (Bus 54, 39)
    Phone no.: 02 70128680
    It takes just 20 minutes by bus from Duomo, or a short bike ride, to end up in a place where time seems to have stopped 50 years ago. The “Balera” could be a perfect set of an old school Italian movie, like Fellini showing the more trivial aspect of the Italian working class having a good time with the few spare money they had. As you enter you will find the balera itself to your right: a open-air dance floor where couple dance the night away whirling on the rhythm of the traditional popular music called liscio, which means smooth.

    To the left you’ll find the bar restaurant. A very rough diner, not the same quality of the bocciofila Caccialanza but cheaper. Ideal during the warmer months, when you can enjoy the patio outside and chill with few drinks. Few minutes in and you’ll forget to be in a big city and you’ll start feeling the relaxed atmosphere of a vintage countryside.

    Open every day of the week from 13.00 to 00.30 (1.30 Friday, Saturday and Sunday).
    Visit their website: www.labaleradellortica.com

  • Iceland: What’s the Best Travel Guide?

    Iceland: What’s the Best Travel Guide?

    Choosing a travel guide is never an easy task. The best would be to buy all of them or, at least, go to a library and go through the most of them, before deciding. For our trip to Iceland went for the Rough Guide, just for a change, as it served us well in Warsaw. Since we were driving a car we also needed to buy a detailed map.

    Our Iceland Road Map

    We were expecting to consult our map outdoor, under extreme weather conditions, the paper torn apart by strong gales and battered by icy rain. This never happened but we decided to buy a waterproof and tearproof map, one of the folding type. We would have preferred a book map, much easier to use inside the car, but the difference of price between the two models was high enough to influence the choice. I would now go for the book map, or for more detailed regional maps as details can be significative when you’re lost in the middle of nowhere with nobody to ask directions to. Check our article for more tips about maps and driving in Iceland.

    Rough Guide Iceland 2013

    Iceland Travel Guides

    Our Rough Guide let us down in few occasions. The Snaefellsnes peninsula was described as a collection of eventless towns, wooden churches and rocks, while our host in Grundarfjordur penned down for us an unforgettable one-day itinerary.

    In the Myvatn region we were massively disappointed as we missed out on this just because it wasn’t clearly described and it wasn’t on the map. Talking about guides with a couple, whose path we crossed a few times along the road, they had the same feedback about their Lonely Planet. Sure we might have got all the hints if we had read the guide thoroughly but I reckon guides should be thought for being consulted quickly on the go.

    They can be found at any tourist information centre of the country, I started collecting them even if we initially thought they were just an excuse to advertise local hotels and restaurants. As a matter of fact they turned out to be incredibly useful, rich of details on the area they cover, from the most popular destinations, to the best activities, to some precious info that wasn’t on our Rough guide. They’re for free and can also come with an extra folding maps which, even though is not quite as detailed, have been very helpful to us in several occasions.

    Self-drive tours

    Before planning the trip ourselves, we’ve contacted some companies organising self drive tours. They are pretty cool as they organise everything for you but they are not intrusive (which we hate) so, once you’re there, you’re on your own and you are completely free, either to stick to the plan or to go off route. Their offer includes: car rental, accommodation booking, maps, suggestions, GPS, assistance. Considering the costs in Iceland, what those guys charge is perfectly acceptable for a nicely planned trip and a safety net. However it was above our budget so we decided to do it on our own.
    The companies we contacted, that seemed professional and reliable, are the Reykjavik based Extreme Iceland and Discover the World.

    Car rental

    First thing we had to get the car sorted. After reading countless forums and blogs we picked Blue Car Rental as our company of choice. It appears to be one of the cheapest and one of the most reliable with smashing reviews. They also offer some older model for a cheaper price (like the guys at SADcars do) so we opted for a Jimmy. If you are not going to use the “difficult” roads, called F-roads, you really don’t need a 4×4 but, since this model costs only little more than small car we opted for a 4×4. And also we figured it’d be cool to drive a car called Jimmy. Different combinations of days – for pick up and drop off – and location – either Keflavik or Reykjavik – can change the final bill massively. Moreover those companies usually offer a transfer service so they will come pick you up wherever you are and they’ll take you where you need to go after you’ve given the car back.

    Booking Accommodation

    This has proven harder than we thought. With few properties, and far between, there’s no much choice in Iceland for a bed to sleep, especially if you’d rather choose for a lower budget. To make things worse the tour operators book, at the beginning of the season, as many rooms as they think they’ll need, leaving even fewer options for the independent traveller, especially in busy areas such as near the Skaftafell National Park. For this reason we recommend to book every night, largely in advance, unless you have a camping kit as a back up plan.
    We’ve booked a mix of rooms in hotels and guesthouses on Booking.com, and AirBnB. We’ll stay in a wooden cabin and in a vintage van parked in a back yard of a house overlooking a fjord… not sure whether to look forward to that or be scared.

    Given the nature of this country and the scarcity of accommodation I highly recommend to contact every property booked, asking for confirmation of availability and if the location is correct. A room booked on AirBnB turned out to be in Reykjavik, not near Akureyri as shown on their map. Luckily we found out before leaving and not once there, in the middle of nowhere.

  • Restaurants in Milan: Good and Cheap

    Restaurants in Milan: Good and Cheap

    Milan is full of restaurant but finding one that meets the two basic requirements: good and cheap, is not that simple. If you walk in the city centre, holding your city guide you’re pretty hopeless and the chances of being ripped off for some basic meal you would find at your local Italian franchising restaurant are very high. After long researches, horrible experiments and precious tips by locals, we’ve shortlisted a few trusted ones:

    • Bocciofila Caccialanza (traditional milanese – home made)
    • Il Doge di Amalfi (pizza – neapolitan food)
    • Da Giannino l’abruzzese (traditional trattoria from the Abruzzi region)
    • Poporoya (sushi – japanese)
    • Trattoria Albero Fiorito (traditional milanese)

    Bocciofila Caccialanza

    Via Padova, 91 20127 Milano, tel.02 2826059
    Closed on Sundays

    Bocciofila” is the name given to those local joints where old people meet for drinking wine and playing bocce, the italian version of petanque. This has came quite in fashion recently and many places have taken this name without the attitude. But not Bocciofila Caccialanza. This one hasn’t changed in 50 years, and still preserve a charme like time stopped. If you  go there in summer you would be sitting in the big gravelled yard surrounded by other cheerful guests and grumpy waiters. There’s no english menu here, which is a good sign, and actually there is no menu at all. Just ask the waiter…I don’t know if they can speak any english so get ready and write down some of my favourites: Tagliatelle al ragù di cinghiale (tagliatelle with boar meat ragu) Cotoletta alla milanese (the traditional battered veal escalope) Grigliata mista (tasty grilled meat) If you’re still hungry after all this ask for the dessert “torroncino”, which is a creamy vanilla icecream topped with caramel and nuts.

    Il Doge di Amalfi

    Via Sangallo, 41  20133 Milano, tel.: 02 730286 Bus 93, Tram 5
    Closed on Mondays

    If you’re looking for a taste of “real Italy”, according to the stereotypes, this is the place to be. A noisy, crowded pizzeria, serving the best neapolitan pizza in Milan, it’s an unforgettable experience for your tastebuds and for your ears. Try to come quite late (from 9pm onwards) to find the confusion at its peak. This is when the owner warms up and gives his best, grinning and shouting something at everyone. If you’re up for it he will immediately focus on you, give you nick names and offer a limoncello at the end. He can speak english and god knows how many other languages, and if you’re not one of the locals you will get a special treatment. And when you think it can’t get messier, with the boss shouting, the waiters running around the tables and kids screaming, there comes the two musicians, loudly playing some popular tunes. Honestly unmissable. You should book in advance, especially if you’re going in the weekend.

    Da Giannino l’Abruzzese

    Via Rosolino Pilo, 20  20129 Milano, tel.: 02 2940 6526 MM1 Porta Venezia, Tram 23
    The real name of this restaurant is Da Giannino l’Angolo d’Abruzzo but if you’re asking for street directions you’d better call it Giannino l’Abruzzese and everyone will understand. Located on via Bixio, in one of the most elegant areas of the city, right behind Porta Venezia, you will be shocked by the change of scenario as you’ll walk in this “osteria” with a very traditional décor. We recommend the “tris di primi” a safe choice for the first course giving you three different pasta in one plate, and the regional legend arrosticini (Abruzzo is located in central Italy, in case you didn’t know), which is skinny sheep skewers served in large numbers.

    Poporoya

    Via Bartolomeo Eustachi, 17 , +39 02 2940 6797 MM1 Lima, Bus 60
    Open 11:00 am–2:00 pm, 6:00 pm–9:30 pm. Closed Sundays
    Tel.: 02 29512635 – 02 29406797 web: www.poporoyamilano.com
    In the recent years a growing number of Japanese restaurants popped up in the streets of Milan, from the most sophisticated ones with minimalist lounges and soft atmosphere to those offering the very popular all-you-can-eat formula. Between these two extreme there’s a restaurant that happens to be the first ever opened in Italy and, in my opinion, the best (at least in Milan. It’s called Poporoya and it was open by Master Shiro in Rome, near Piazza del Popolo, hence the name. This happened in the 70s and I guess that was a very bold move. After few years they relocated in Milan, and never moved since. It’s very small, there’s a shop at the entrance and walking through a door between the shelves you will access the dining room: 4 small tables and a bar facing the desk where Shiro is skillfully chopping the raw fish. He’s a very nice man and he’ll be delighted to entertain you. The food, of course, is amazing. Go for the classic Sushi, or Sashimi, but don’t skip those weird Japanese specialities that you won’t normally find in the other restaurant.

    Trattoria Albero Fiorito

    Via Privata A. Pellizzone, 14
    Closed on Satuday night and Sunday

    Going to this trattoria (an italian term that stays for “traditional family-run restaurant”) feels like having the privilege of sharing a secret. Getting there can be challenging too: far from every metro station, it’s in a dead end street in a logistically absurd area where streets are laid as an asterisk. It doesn’t have a sign, except for a worn sign of a coffe brand, and it’s behind a hotel so you don’t really see it when you are at the beginning of such alley. For all this, writing about this place and divulging this little hidden treasur feels like I’m betraying this secret society. As we walk in the first question from the fiercely moustached landlord is “Are you here to eat and go or you want to spend the whole evening here?” we manage to give the correct answer. “Who sent you here?” We mumble a half munched answer and he goes “You must know the rules: you take the drinks from the bar and write down your order. Quick”. If you expect a proper restaurant don’t even bother going there. The food is simple but good, cooked at the moment, so it might take a while after your order. Prices are ridiculously cheap so they must ensure that the turnover is quick. This place checks all the boxes of a nostalgic vintage diner: checked tablecloth, fireplace, old signs, liquor bar, simple food and relaxed atmosphere. It’s so real that we never met any hipster, probably because they don’t find the comfort of a wifi connection and the word “organic” written here and there on the menu.

    Warning: the mission of this blog is to suggest places where you can fearlessly go and experience the real soul of the country and the city you’re visiting. It’s the case of this restaurant to but we highly recommend to go to Albero Fiorito with someone who’s fluent in Italian.

  • The Scottish Highlands: Into the Wild

    Our idea was simple: get a car in Glasgow and head off north towards the Outer Hebrides improvising our route on the way.
    How naive.
    Since a couple of years the usual national tourism has been joined by even more visitors from Europe and North America, thus saturating the entire accommodation market of West Scotland. Our trip has been then decided on the basis of where was the next available room, which prevented us from reaching the Hebrides but gave us some surprises. The first of which is a small island called Easdale.

    Oban and surroundings

    A quick search during our first night in Glasgow was enough to present us with hard evidence: the Isle of Skye was already full to the brim with tourist, and the Isle of Mull was inaccessible as there was no way to find a combination of: available room, a ferry to the island and a ferry back from the island.
    We then decide to stop in Oban, the town famous for its whisky, gateway to the Highlands. It’s really worth a visit, a whisky tasting, a decent meal and an ice-cream before entering the terra incognita where you might find the only restaurant in miles closing at 5pm. Less than one hour drive from there there’s Ellenabeich, where we park the car to and take the ferry to cross the 100 metres strip of sea to Easdale Island. We sleep in a tiny coal shed ingenuously transformed in a en-suite bunkhouse, enjoying for a short while the life of an island so small it can be strolled around in one hour. What’s to see here? Nothing, and everything. If you’re after stunning landmarks you’re in the wrong place. Scotland’s charme works on its own time and has to be enjoyed without rash, taking in every moment of it.

    Loch Ness and the tourists of Scotland

    The northward road runs along that long strip of lakes that seems to cut Scotland diagonally in two. It starts in Fort Williams, base camp for Ben Nevis excursions and walks in the surrounding woods, and goes until Loch Ness. In Fort Augustus, the town at the southern tip of the famous lake, we get stuck. Tourists are clogging the only road, queuing to cross the rotating bridge or to decide which service station to go to. All of this made worst by the left-hand traffic and by the flock-of-sheep instincts that somehow take over even the sanest people when on holiday. Along the lake there’s people everywhere, in cars, camper vans and tour bus, stopping to take a photo, buying some taking souvenir or booking the unmissable cruise on the loch. Which is just a long narrow lake, like most of the other Scottish lochs, and not even the prettiest I’ve seen.
    I’m astonished by the amount of business created around an invented story, but then I think of places like Lourdes or Medjugorje and Nessie seems more innocuous.

    Ullapool and the Wild

    More than just innocuous, Nessie ends up being helpful. Thanks to it most of the people won’t venture further from the lake shores and we end up sharing the road with just few other tourists for the rest of our trip. We head towards Ullapool taking a scenic coastal route, which I highly recommend. As previously mentioned Scotland is not a place where you use your car to go from A to B, because for real here the travel matters more, or as much as, the destination. Along the way we found woods abundant with blueberries, a castle with a cattle of hairy coos in its garden and, in an all but deserted valley, we witnessed a solitary majestic deer crossing the road and stopping to look at us, looking at him. All you could hear was the stomping of his hoofs.

    Ullapool is a pretty coastal town, one of the few in the area offering more than a restaurant and even a big supermarket. From our B&B window we could enjoy a spectacular view on the ocean reaching inland like a fjord. Not far from there, driving north along the coast, you can follow for Rhue to enjoy a beautiful sunset by a lighthouse. And you’ll be most likely swarmed by midges.

    Lochinver and the North-West Beaches

    From the port of Ullapool you can take the ferry to Stornoway on the Outer Hebrides, unless you get there during the 4 days of Celtic Fest, like we did. The festival doubles the island population, and for its duration all ferries are fully booked. We then end up having more days than we expected to spend in a place we didn’t expect, so we invest our time exploring the coastal routes around Lochinver travelling, on an average, at walking speed. Without the luxury of time we would have missed a colony of seals, hiding in a bay visible only from a specific points along the road. We wouldn’t have taken all the deviations, some of which took us to unexpected white sand beaches with turquoise water, like tropics with Scottish weather. And mostly we wouldn’t have had time to spend with the locals, a people hardened by the weather but not disheartened by it. We were welcomed with warmth and friendliness that went way beyond our expectations.

  • Milan: How to Get There

    Milan: How to Get There

    If you’re planning on visiting Italy, whether you’re going by train or plane, you’re very likely to arrive in Milan first. The city is well connected to the rest of Europe by the railway and, thanks to its 3 big airports, also by the main airlines.

    It’s the perfect starting point for the classic tour: Venice, Florence, Rome.

    By Train: Stazione Centrale

    Surely Central Station is not displaying the best welcoming committee for you. Whether you arrive by train, or by coach coming from some airport you will find a place so messy to even look picturesque. Getting useful information there is a tough challenge, and I speak Italian…good luck if you don’t. I also feel quite unsafe there, even though it’s been renewed there’s always a strange feeling…like of being under siege, and sometimes the evil world from outside might leak in. You get off the coach and you’ll be surrounded by men with a trolley offering help for carrying your luggage (I don’t think I really need to specified that but their services are not “for free” as they claim), people selling you umbrellas if the weather is lousy or some useless item when it’s not. You work your way to the metro station, try to purchase a ticket at the automatic machine and you are surrounded by women kindly volunteering to help you with that complicated machinery and with the change (I don’t think I really need to specify that they’re not moved by sheer generosity and altruism).

    The Station is served by the underground (lines 2-3) and several other surface transport lines. Check out our detailed article on public transport in Milan.

    Arriving by plane: Malpensa, Linate, Orio al Serio

    If you’re flying to Milan you will land at one of these airports:

    Malpensa is the international airport. If you’re on an international flight you will land there. The airport is connected to Milan city centre by buses arriving to and leaving from Central Station (10 euro one way, 16 return, you can buy tickets at the newsagent’s) and by the Malpensa Express train (www.malpensaexpress.it) arriving to and leaving from Cadorna, another train station, mainly used for local connection. A one way ticket costs 11 euro, but there are other trains from/to Central Sation. A ticket for one of those local trains is 10 euro but they’re very slow, so for 1 euro more I’d definitely get the Express.
    If you arrive late or leave early you might go for a taxi, but consider that a ride to the city centre will cost about 90 euro!

    Malpensa has a smoking cabin and offers free wifi.

    Linate is the city airport. Is connected to the city centre by a bus line that costs like a single ticket (€1,50) and arrives to San Babila, right behind the Duomo. The line is either 73 or X73, the first is the regular bus, while the latter is an express service, with no intermediate stops. The distance is quite short but the bus will have to work its way through the nightmarish traffic and will take at least half an hour. Make yourselves comfortable.

    Orio al Serio is tagged as a “Milan airport” but it’s actually near Bergamo. The best way to reach Milan from there, or the other way round, is by bus. There are several companies connecting the airport to Central Station (roughly 50km), for the cost of 5€ each way. The price was originally higher so it might get back to the original fare. There are buses departing each 15-20 minutes and the trip takes about 1 hour (you’d better factor in 1 hour and a half in case the bus get stuck in the traffic).

    Orio al Serio airport has been recently renewed and has a modern shopping gallery and a smoking room in the gates area.. Wifi is free, you’ll only have to sign up. The form is a bit tricky when it asks where you live. Apparently it doen’t accept non-italian cities, but type Milano or any other Italian city and it’ll do

    You can buy tickets at the newsagent’s or directly at the bus. Check this website for the timetable: